The semigrey nomad.: Kokoda Prologue

Let me climb into your head and show you what it is like to get out of your comfort zone. Travel with me to Papua New Guinea and along the Kokoda track. Experience it all first hand through my eyes. No need to get up.

Some of the soldiers of the 39th on the Kokoda track

It was Kurt Fearnley, one of Australia’s most successful wheelchair athletes, that inspired me to kick start this adventure. It was well documented how Kurt crawled Kokoda and on his return to Australia chose to crawl across the tarmac rather than use the inadequate wheelchair provided by the airline.” It's more of a trolley than a wheelchair. I have no mobility at all. If that's a wheelchair, then a car is a wheelchair.” Said the athlete.

How hard can it be this Kokoda track. Let me put it bluntly and refer to the letter my doctor has to sign before I am let loose on the trail.

“The Kokoda Trail is 96 km long and we cover the distance in 9 days. The track is located in a mountainous and remote part of PNG. The track climbs to an altitude of 2,190 m and over the complete track we climb more than 6,000 m and descend over 6,000 m in height. This part of PNG is hot, humid and wet with rough mountain tracks, narrow passes and numerous river and log crossings.”

A basic map of the Kokoda track

Hiking 96 km on the flat can be done in three days if pushed. The trick is in the 12,000 metres up and down. Just to give you an idea: it is like walking three quarters up Mount Everest and then back down again. In one way a very alluring prospect, on the other a little nutty.

The sweat chart

The letter continues

“Conditions on the track are challenging, strenuous and physically demanding. High physical stress, dehydration and body overheating are major concerns for your patient. A large part of the area that we trek in is inaccessible by helicopter or any other emergency service. There is no access to emergency first aid or medical facility on the Kokoda Track.”

So if you get injured there is nothing anyone can do for you. I had many visions of being carted up and down the hills on a makeshift stretcher by several straining porters while I am writhing in pain from a bout of Malaria, scrub typhoid, dysentery or a broken leg. End of vision - thank goodness!!!

“Please advise your patient that they need to be undertaking a suitable training program and

they will need to be of a high level of fitness and in good physical condition. The trek is

arduous and physically demanding, with particular demand on the heart, lungs, knees and

joints.”

Training at Big Brook Dam Pemberton

And training I did. I hiked up and down every mountain we came across on our way to South Australia. Ran in parkrun Busselton, Bunbury, Albany and Kalgoorlie. Ran through creek beds, over dirt roads and through every National park I could find. Unfortunately, six weeks out from Kokoda I heard something snap in my knee whilst making beds at Fraser Range station (see previous blogs). What followed was a very difficult time trying to rest more and train less. The Kokoda track ain’t no picnic with a dodgy knee and I was no longer confident I would make it. Nine days out I felt like cancelling the whole thing. I didn’t want to be a burden to anyone on this track.

Beep test tank on the hill at Fraser Range. If you can still say beep when you get to the top, go again

One encouraging but hard conversation with my lovely partner Jules and I was back on track. I am going to hike this thing with or without a leg. Just look at Kurt.

The Porongurup's were challenging

What on earth am I doing this for? Why??? I can hear these questions from the snug position I have taken in your head. Aside from the mental and physical challenge and obvious historical significance, I am questioning where the Dutchman within me sits around in his windmill with his clogs on and the akubra wielding Australian galah begins. To quote the Bee Gees of all bands “How deep is your love?”

Hiking on every trail in the Lincoln National Park, South Australia

Who in their right mind would want to do this with you? I can sense your grey matter instructing your mouth to express itself. Well, there is Jason my mate who after a couple of nudges said “yes” to join me on this adventure of a lifetime. I asked Paul, an ex-boss/co-worker, who instantly told me he had been dreaming about doing Kokoda for many years and was with me in an instant. To make my band of brothers complete, Simon, my brother-in-law loved the idea of the challenge and in a short time turned himself from a couch potato to someone who could easily carry a couch for hundreds of kilometres.

Four brothers on the track

I am so curious to who will be joining us on the Kokoda track. Who are those other fellow hikers in our group, the unknown guide, the porter I will be walking with, the other porters and what about Papua New Guinea. The trail awaits.

Nothing to see from the top of Mt Cavern, Flinders Ranges

Grey Bits

There are many companies that conduct organised tours on the Kokoda track. We chose Kokoda Spirit for our trek ,which coincidently was the same as Kurt Fearnley crawled with. Check out the website at www.kokodaspirit.com.au

I had some problems sorting out my visa. Where does the embassy send your passport with the PNG visa when you have no fixed abode? Send away your passport for your visa well ahead of your starting date.

Yes. That’s right. Julie is staying in Adelaide. We have arranged for her Mum to fly from Perth to keep her company. In my absence, they plan to visit the Barossa Valley, Hahndorf and indulge in some retail therapy.