Larapinta 12: Lost in a Chasm

 
 
 

 
“Look!! Someone dripped some paint on that bird.” our neighbours recalled her thoughts when they first encountered  the Great Bower bird. The conspicuous pink bludge or nape standing out like a veggie burger at a butchers. Julie and I found this bird and its collection of white shells and green broken glass in a nest close to Standley Chasm.  

Most of their life these feisty birds or Chlamydera Nuchalis are busy all year round with either building a nest (males) or raise their young on their own (females), Bower Birds are renown for being able to copy sounds like cats, power tools, squeaky doors, ringtones of phones and other bird calls. The loud screeching male we stumbled on was building its nest, continuously moving stuff around and definitely wanted us to vamoose.

Saturday 23 July 2016

The rest day was an absolute necessity by the time I got to the Chasm. After a seriously amusing chat and coffee with the man of the law at the chasm kiosk, Jules and I drove to a four-wheel drive accessible part of the Hugh River, a free campsite around twenty kms away. Here I could stick my blistered feet up in the air and was treated like a king all day - sitting on a camping chair instead of rocks - pure bliss!!!

We were all by ourselves in a vast open space - a fire in the creek bed - ripper sunset and sunrise - awesome tranquillity - no walking.

 

Sunday 24 July 2016

 

Section 3: Standley Chasm to Jay Creek

Section 3 is a 13.6km section.

This section is a challenging walk through some of the steepest and most rugged country in the ranges. The low route is available to those with an average level of fitness.

Believe me you need to be fit to walk the low route

We returned back to Standley Chasm and paid our $12 entry fee to view the steep crevasse in the red granite (northern territorians only pay $1).

Called Angkerle by the Aborigines, the Chasms European name honours Mrs Ida Standley who, in 1914, became the first school teacher in Alice Springs.


Mrs Ida Standley

In 1925 the school for children of Aboriginal descent was moved from Alice Springs to Jay Creek [Iwupataka] with Mrs Standley as matron.

It was during her time at Jay Creek that she became the first non-Aboriginal woman to visit the feature that now bears her name.

Information taken from the Standley Chasm website


A lovely short walk to the chasm
 
The approach to Standley Chasm is a lovely winding path next to a tiny creek, with beautiful gumtrees and flanked by the Chewing Range slopes. The chasm itself, a cool narrow space, with a surprising amount of flowers gracing its walls suitable for abseiling. Memories flooded back of the huge Echidna’s Chasm, a must see if you are ever near the Bungle Bungles.
 

The chasm
 
The wild staircase out of the chasm was truly a challenge with the pack full of water and new supplies. I was looking down in full concentration at the rocky steps, that I did not notice the photographer standing still up the track waiting to see whether I would crash into her or not. I managed to stop at the last second - “you ought to look up more” she told me. We chatted all the way up and she introduced herself as Julie Fletcher. She was hauling a 15 kilo bag full of her camera gear up the hill. I have since found out how proffesional a photographer she is. Check this website below. Unfortunately I had a late start that day with a lot further to go than Julie so I had to say arrevoir.

 


What I saw when I looked away from those stairs
 
I found the Melbournian walking group having a rest on top of Gastrolobium Saddle and had my morning tea with them.


The Melbournian hiking group setting off from Gastrolobium Saddle

The track funnelled through a narrow gorge with massive rocks that needed jumping and climbing. Here I overtook a middle-aged lady whom appeared to be struggling. I was glad to see she had someone looking after her when I met a young guy called Grant down the track.
 

A bit of canyoning......
A bit of climbing....
 
A bit of abseiling without rope

When, finally, the rocky creek bed had been stumbled over and hiking became easier on an undulating dusty track, I saw my friendly, wandering attorney wave at me as he disappeared up a hill. Hunger time demanded for me to sit  down for lunch and I found the Millers campsite a good spot to rest. Ten minutes later I heard a voice from above calling out. “Marcel, are you still there?”  I replied in the affirmative. “I am a bit lost” came the voice from above again. A couple of minutes later I heard "I will wait until you have finished your lunch so you can show me where the track is”. This is when I realised the man of the law may well be in a spot of bother and walked to the place where I last saw him. It must be said, in defence of my lawyer, that the turn off is one of those this can't be the right way; therefore, I am ignoring it turn offs. Getting lost at this spot  is merely an inescapable verdict. I called him back to where I was standing with a cuppa soup in hand and heard him battle with the spinifex on his way down. He thanked me for getting him back on track and we both had a bit of a laugh about it.



Some of the rare flowers of the Larapinta trail

Some time later in the day I caught up with the notary and I judged him to be great company as we meandered along side of some amazing waterholes of Jay Creek in the late afternoon. I noticed how he tapped every Larapinta trail sign with his hiking stick, as if to acknowledge that at this moment he was relieved to be on the right trial.

We arrived at the Jay Creek hut where the first question I was asked by an older gentleman was had my sleeping bag dried up? The story of the accidental dipping of my bag in the Hugh River five days ago travelling the Larapinta grapevine faster than I could walk.

There was something wrong (acknowledged by Roz and John) with the atmosphere in the busy shelter -  lots of awkward silences. I didn’t think anything of it untill a pale looking man called Alex lit up a bong in the middle of the hut. To this day I cannot understand why you would smoke marihuana in front of eight complete strangers. What I would not be surprised about is if the police were waiting for him at Ellery Creek to pull him off the track. You noticed how a minor story like my wet backpack did the rounds on the trail?

It is true, dear reader, the world is full of a huge diversity of people. It sure makes for an exciting and interesting life.

I camped well away from the hut that night.


Grey Bits

You can admire the wonderful images taken by Julie Fletcher at http://www.juliefletcherphotography.com.au/


Do you want to become a guest blogger, write your own story and publish on my blog? I would love to hear from you. Email me at storiesfrommars@gmail.com
 
Believe it or not but Standley Chasm Resort owns the only free washing machine on the Larapinta for hikers. The shower was somewhat dribbly but I was certainly not complaining.

  
Find out more about this magical place at
http://www.standleychasm.com.au/about-standley-chasm

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