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If you are in the Goldfields or traveling across the Nullarbor make sure you get on the Norseman to Hyden road. We started our trip just outside Norseman where we left our caravan in the care of Ron and Ziggy (see the Ron and Ziggy blog at http://semigreynomad.blogspot.com/2016/05/ron-and-ziggy.html) and drove the amazing road from Norseman to Hyden. The dirt road is of such high quality I found the car wondering off in the 90 to 100km per hour range and still feeling quite safe.
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| The smooth ride from Norseman to Hyden |
The first 150 km of this road is set amidst the most unbelievable display of gum trees I have ever seen. We saw Black Butts, Gimlets and the famous Salmon Gums that light up at dawn and dusk. This area is certainly an underrated hidden gem and photography here is pure pleasure.
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| Colourful camouflaged dragon lizards were everywhere on these rocks |
After cruising for about 80km you will see Disappointment Rock appear on the left of the track. There is a great walk marked with quirky interpretive signs indicating sites like “natural bridge” or “gnomes picnics area”. The size of those formations has to be, sorry, disappointing but the landscape and wildlife are certainly not.
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| Water on Disappointment Rock |
Adding to the pleasure of driving through these woodlands are three remarkable spots to free camp. The first campsite area we came across was at Lake Johnson. Nestled at the shore of the massive, at the time, dry pan you are treated with the vast open views from the shelter of old Gimlet trees.
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| The view over Lake Johnson after the fog had lifted |
We drove in and out of the McDermid rock campsite, which would have been a perfect place to camp underneath the gum trees. We would have loved to have stayed the night here watching the sun set from the top of this huge boulder. Stuck on the back of this granite mass is a large pebble (balancing rock) insecurely, but spectacularly teetering on a steep slope and well worth the clamber up the almost vertical start of the walk.
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| The area around the Breakaways at dusk |
The friendly lady
behind the counter of the Norseman visitors centre rightly recommended the Breakaways
as her preferred place to camp out. All eight spacious sites snuggle up to a large
limestone wall that gives shelter against
the wind and give you the feeling of living in a cave. In the evening
you can sit and watch the colors of these change at dawn and dusk or cast your
own funny shadows at night.
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| Camping next to the limestone wall |
At the end of this road, just before you get to Hyden, lays one of the most popular tourist
attractions in Australia - "Wave Rock". I recommend going early in the morning to
view the granite breaker as to avoid the ripples of tourists surfing this motionless
swell of stone. By the time you finish riding the wave of excitement, dodging
your way through the crowd as if you are starting in a triathlon, you would be
ready to return to the quiet woodlands of the Hyden to Norseman track.
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| When the crowd ebbed I managed to take this photo |
Grey Bits
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| Don't miss Hippos Yawn at Wave Rock |
Check out the road conditions before you go as it can change
in an instant. There are signs at the beginning telling you which part of the
road is open or you can call Main Roads WA, “Road Conditions” at 1800 013 314.
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| Check road conditions as things can change |
You can collect a free map of the Hyden-Norseman road
called the Granite and Woodlands Trail at the Norseman or Wave Rock visitors
centre for updates. It contains a lot more information about this area and I have
used it as a reference in my story.
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| The view from Disappointment rock |
We met a local photographer called Lynn Webb in Norseman who’s
photographs I rate highly. Have a look at his stunning artwork at www.lynnwebb.com.au or visit his gallery
at the roundabout with the tin camels in Norseman. Sorry Lynn - we could not fit
any of your work in our caravan!
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| Before the landing |
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| The bush around McDermid Rock |
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