Larapinta 9. The Choice Between Sore Feet and Haemorrhoids






I managed to get away before any of the seven hikers that were camped in Ellery Creek - not that it was a race I told myself. I was keen to put in a good distance on this day and rushed through the first section in the cool shade of the MacDonnell range. I went up and down the saddle too quickly, stumbling dangerously on a couple of occasions. An area of exposed and relative flat invited me to walk fast and without any breaks to Rocky Gully campsite. I washed myself under the tap as sweat was pouring off me during my fast journey of the rising sun - temperatures reaching the high twenties at midday.




The gnarly root systems of the Eucalyptus trees around Ellery Creek 

Section 6: Ellery Creek to Hugh Gorge

Section 6 is a 31.2km section. You will need to camp overnight to finish the section.

This section takes you across the Alice Valley from Hugh Gorge, in the Chewings Range, to Ellery Creek Big Hole in the Heavitree Range. 

It is one of the longest sections of the trail.
 
Information from the government website.

 
The large elaborate lunch made a welcome return. Pasta and coffee; a combination I would never dream consuming together anywhere else, but a necessary energy boost under these circumstances. Roz and John joined me at the campsite and we discussed continuing on as we all felt pretty fresh after a morning's hike. This 16 kilometre stretch did not include a Big Hill, crazy left turn or a steep cliff face to hang oneself off.


John and Roz at Rocky Gully

 
This area is Australian Australia. Red desert, low scrub, dry creek crossings under a blue sky. The next possible campsite was Ghost Gum Flat, only seven kilometres away. Again, a massive afternoon tea. Roz and John decided to stay. 'How great would it be to hike this 31.2 section in one hit.'? thought the competitive nutter within me. So I packed up once more and set off at 4pm.


One of the two stunning Corkwood trees at Ghost Gum Flat

The sun setting in rich golden tones, playing with the colours of the grasses and rocks. This is a great time of the day to be walking. Sounds like all is wonderful, right?


The sun setting over the Australian bush.

 
It is now time to introduce you to my shoes. After I gave my shoes to Smiddy, my porter at the end of the Kokoda track, I have had terrible trouble finding shoes that would fit the enormous kayaks protruding forward from underneath my body. I compromised and spent fifty dollars on a pair of clodhoppers from a, to remain nameless, shoe shop where famously one would spend a lot less. The insoles after a week of hiking had just about  evaporated. The floor of my shoe had the reverse contour mirroring the soul of my shoe. Basically, it was like walking on a bed of blunt, hard-rubber spikes. Maseur sandals gone wrong! I was in a desperate state; almost ready to chuck in the towel when I finally limped into the Hugh River campsite.



A long-nosed dragon spotted in the area

At this beautiful campsite, which donned the same style hut as at Finke River and Serpentine Gorge, I found six gentlemen who immediately engaged in one of the friendliest conversations ever. I was introduced to each and every one, asked a lot of questions and made to feel welcome in the hut. After setting up and having a quick wash, I sat down in the fading light cooking and chatting away. It turned out that the six went to the same university and studied engineering, many years ago. When they were  young lads, they had the great idea of putting together a communal bucket list. Each year they would hike and holiday together knocking one of the items off the list. One of them said that he was looking forward to the first cruise that was due on the list in a couple of years as hiking has slowly become more difficult.
 

Six of the best shoe engineers, Steve second from the right, the man whom I possibly have caused a bout of haemorrhoids
 

When they became aware of the problems of my shoes all six of them poured over the two vessels and discussed how to improve my situation. One of the bucket-list members, Steve, sacrificed his foam, square sheet he used to sit on hard benches like the ones in the hut. A pile-preventing measure. Why not!!! I was able to cut new insoles and improve my footwear beyond recognition. I thanked him profusely.


A pile of discarded old boots at Glen Helen with lots of bush engineering


That night there were a lot of noises disturbing the quiet surrounds. It was obvious the dried hiking food was wreaking havoc with the ol' fellahs.

The longest section of the trail completed in one day. Nuts - but satisfying. 


Grey Bits
 
Remind me to never compromise on hiking shoes. They are the  most important tools of the trade you have out there. If I had to do it over again, I would have made sure my shoes were of good quality, walked in and comfortable.

One of the drawbacks of aging expressed itself in the middle age spreading of my feet. What I thought of as completely acceptable size eleven 20 years ago has now sagged to a pes planus size 13 and a half. Trying to buy my size in a regular shop has somehow become near impossible.


'Buy proper shoes, Mars!'

When you are hiking the Larapinta expect your toes to bang up against the front of your shoes on the downhill and your heal to reverse and slide against the back when ascending. I have read somewhere to buy shoes one size bigger to allow for this fierce friction. Imagine buying shoes size 14 and a half?!!

On my return to Alice Springs it took me no time at all to pick my next hiking shoes. I went to the only hiking shop in town where I had the choice of ONE pair which had to be ordered in. I am walking them in as much as I can to get them ready for my next adventure. Not surprisingly, they have started to feel a little small. Thanks to all the friendly staff who helped me out with my impossible feet and thanks again to the six engineers for solving my foot conundrum out in the sticks. 

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