Larapinta 10. Caught by a Razorback.

"Every mountain top is within reach if you just keep climbing"


After saying a warm goodbye to my six comrades who were walking in the opposite direction, I set off through Hugh Gorge renowned for its wading spots. Jumping from rock to rock or stumbling through the gravelly, dried creek I came to appreciate or not appreciate the difficulties of hiking through the obstacle minefield that is a creek-bed in the West Macs.

 

First contact with the water

 
 

 

Thursday 21 July 2016

Section 5: Hugh Gorge to Birthday Waterhole

Section 5 is a 16km section. You will need to camp overnight to finish the section.

This challenging section of the trail passes through Spencer Gorge, along the spine of Razorback Ridge and then down the narrow Linear Valley to the junction with the Hugh River. The trail follows natural watercourses and you may need to walk around pools of water in Hugh Gorge.

 

Information from the government website



One of the whistling kites common of this area waiting long enough for me to capture it.

At the first wading spot, I changed my shoes to the sandals I had been carrying for over a week. The water was pleasantly chilled. One of the engineers mentioned that it was only knee deep. Maybe he thought I was taller as the water came up to my waste instantly destroying a bag of nuts and a muesli bar that I kept in my pocket to munch on. There wasn’t a friendly traffic controller or survival expert out there to tell me what the best way around or through this creek. Alone I battled on - up steep rocks- climbing in and over trees - sometimes holding on to branches – dropping my pack over rocks and jumping after it – grazing my legs  - cutting my hands. I started talking to myself or more like berating my clumsiness, which isn't a good sign. At one stage, I was wading through the water when suddenly the ground disappeared. I flipped backwards due to the heavy load I carried and dipped my pack into the black water of the creek. Luckily the weather was warm enough to dry out my sleeping bag and mattress.

Nature: One - Mars: Zero.  

 




There was no way around this water

It took me two and a half hours to thrash myself through this three kilometre stretch.

The narrow gorge spilled into this amazing opening in a much wider part of the valley called Hugh Gorge Junction which was surrounded by red cliff faces. I explained to the four hikers, who had spent the night there, about the wading they still had to encounter. They were curious as to why I was so wet and was bleeding in several places. There were plenty of 'oh wells' and the shrugging of shoulders coming from them during our conversation, but fear grew in the eyes of the two girls of the group.
 

The gorge opening up to Hugh Gorge Junction

 

A long, gradual climb ended at a saddle (Rocky Saddle) which had the most amazing views. Here, I met a cheerful young man from Ireland, who had also stopped there to admire the beauty of the area. We both stood in awe of our surrounds and expletives flowed freely.

By hunger-time, I had made my way down to the Fringe Lily campsite. The lack of a water tank at this campsite proved the catalyst for me to move on. I started the day with a heavy five litres and was basically forced to walk on. Two and a half litres is not enough to survive another 24 hours for a post recovering kidney stone victim.

'You will die without water.' A little voice in the back of my head rung out.
 



The view from Rocky Saddle

 

At Fringe Lily Campsite, I finally read the maps and notes on the Larapinta trail and became aware that section five and six are not to be underestimated and that I should have taken at least two more days to complete Ellery creek to Standley Chasm. Note to self: 'Read the government info PROPERLY. The hiking around this area is extremely technical, but evenly matched in beauty.

 



The view looking back west from Razorback, the track up Rocky Saddle on the right


I was lost immediately after lunch for about twenty minutes. My brain subconsciously dismissing the blue arrow pointing up a ridiculous wall, walking straight past in the creek bed until the lack of signage became so obvious a goldfish would have turned back long ago.

 

A shadow selfie on the edge

 

The anger I felt towards myself was soon burned up on this hair raising edge. It isn't often that I stop to look for extended periods of time at something, but Razorback Ridge is a spell-binding, wild experience not to be missed on the Larapinta. The name such an incredibly apt description of the shape of this beast. Sharp - rocky – steep drop on both sides – rugged – dangerous – untamed with views galore. Being on an incredible, possibly, endorphin induced high, there is only one way to go from there.

 

DOwn
 

The giant row of peaks and troughs, like a bad day on Wall Street

 

A totally impossible riverbed, or should I say a dry waterfall without a track, presented itself out the back of the razorback experience. Spencer Gorge, remember that name when you go walking there. Three hours of bum-sliding, lowering yourself, and jumping downwards turning your legs to jittery unstable elastic bands. I felt sorry for those smiling, shirt-cladded women I passed that had to have climbed up here.

 

Late in the afternoon I finally completed sixteen kilometres in ten hours of hiking.

A tough day in 'cheap' boots.

 

I found the strangely named 4/5 junction hut full with almost all camping pads used. A Melbournian walking group had taken over and it was hard to find a space. I thought back to my six engineers and missed their humor, banter and conversations. I also thought back regretfully to the many pristine spots I could have camped on my own under the stars. Maybe I was just tired from a gruelling, adventurous day.


Grey Bits

 
Timing is everything they say. Unfortunately, I don't think I timed my hike very well in this section having set myself an unrealistic deadline to meet Julie at Standley Chasm. My advice is to camp out at Fringe Lily, Hugh Gorge Junction or any other spot you can find and break this section in two as the website suggests. This is truly a special stretch of the Larapinta trail and should be given all the rubbernecking, oohs and aahs it deserves.

To my own surprise, it was at Fringed Lily campsite I made the mad commitment to myself to walk the trail again - especially this stretch of the Larapinta.

The opening quote of this blog is from Barry Finlay, Author and Mountaineer.

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A tree on the edge

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