Larapinta 12: Lost in a Chasm

 

 

 

 

“Look!! Someone dripped some paint on that bird.” our neighbours recalled her thoughts when they first encountered  the Great Bower bird. The conspicuous pink bludge or nape standing out like a veggie burger at a butchers. Julie and I found this bird and its collection of white shells and green broken glass in a nest close to Standley Chasm.  

Most of their life these feisty birds or Chlamydera Nuchalis are busy all year round with either building a nest (males) or raise their young on their own (females), Bower Birds are renown for being able to copy sounds like cats, power tools, squeaky doors, ringtones of phones and other bird calls. The loud screeching male we stumbled on was building its nest, continuously moving stuff around and definitely wanted us to vamoose.

Saturday 23 July 2016

The rest day was an absolute necessity by the time I got to the Chasm. After a seriously amusing chat and coffee with the man of the law at the chasm kiosk, Jules and I drove to a four-wheel drive accessible part of the Hugh River, a free campsite around twenty kms away. Here I could stick my blistered feet up in the air and was treated like a king all day - sitting on a camping chair instead of rocks - pure bliss!!!

We were all by ourselves in a vast open space - a fire in the creek bed - ripper sunset and sunrise - awesome tranquillity - no walking.

 

Sunday 24 July 2016

 

Section 3: Standley Chasm to Jay Creek

Section 3 is a 13.6km section.

This section is a challenging walk through some of the steepest and most rugged country in the ranges. The low route is available to those with an average level of fitness.

Believe me you need to be fit to walk the low route

We returned back to Standley Chasm and paid our $12 entry fee to view the steep crevasse in the red granite (northern territorians only pay $1).

Called Angkerle by the Aborigines, the Chasms European name honours Mrs Ida Standley who, in 1914, became the first school teacher in Alice Springs.



Mrs Ida Standley

In 1925 the school for children of Aboriginal descent was moved from Alice Springs to Jay Creek [Iwupataka] with Mrs Standley as matron.

It was during her time at Jay Creek that she became the first non-Aboriginal woman to visit the feature that now bears her name.

Information taken from the Standley Chasm website



A lovely short walk to the chasm

 
The approach to Standley Chasm is a lovely winding path next to a tiny creek, with beautiful gumtrees and flanked by the Chewing Range slopes. The chasm itself, a cool narrow space, with a surprising amount of flowers gracing its walls suitable for abseiling. Memories flooded back of the huge Echidna’s Chasm, a must see if you are ever near the Bungle Bungles.
 

The chasm

 

The wild staircase out of the chasm was truly a challenge with the pack full of water and new supplies. I was looking down in full concentration at the rocky steps, that I did not notice the photographer standing still up the track waiting to see whether I would crash into her or not. I managed to stop at the last second - “you ought to look up more” she told me. We chatted all the way up and she introduced herself as Julie Fletcher. She was hauling a 15 kilo bag full of her camera gear up the hill. I have since found out how proffesional a photographer she is. Check this website below. Unfortunately I had a late start that day with a lot further to go than Julie so I had to say arrevoir.

 



What I saw when I looked away from those stairs

 

I found the Melbournian walking group having a rest on top of Gastrolobium Saddle and had my morning tea with them.

The Melbournian hiking group setting off from Gastrolobium Saddle

The track funnelled through a narrow gorge with massive rocks that needed jumping and climbing. Here I overtook a middle-aged lady whom appeared to be struggling. I was glad to see she had someone looking after her when I met a young guy called Grant down the track.

 


A bit of canyoning......

A bit of climbing....

 

A bit of abseiling without rope

When, finally, the rocky creek bed had been stumbled over and hiking became easier on an undulating dusty track, I saw my friendly, wandering attorney wave at me as he disappeared up a hill. Hunger time demanded for me to sit  down for lunch and I found the Millers campsite a good spot to rest. Ten minutes later I heard a voice from above calling out. “Marcel, are you still there?”  I replied in the affirmative. “I am a bit lost” came the voice from above again. A couple of minutes later I heard "I will wait until you have finished your lunch so you can show me where the track is”. This is when I realised the man of the law may well be in a spot of bother and walked to the place where I last saw him. It must be said, in defence of my lawyer, that the turn off is one of those this can't be the right way; therefore, I am ignoring it turn offs. Getting lost at this spot  is merely an inescapable verdict. I called him back to where I was standing with a cuppa soup in hand and heard him battle with the spinifex on his way down. He thanked me for getting him back on track and we both had a bit of a laugh about it.




Some of the rare flowers of the Larapinta trail

Some time later in the day I caught up with the notary and I judged him to be great company as we meandered along side of some amazing waterholes of Jay Creek in the late afternoon. I noticed how he tapped every Larapinta trail sign with his hiking stick, as if to acknowledge that at this moment he was relieved to be on the right trial.

We arrived at the Jay Creek hut where the first question I was asked by an older gentleman was had my sleeping bag dried up? The story of the accidental dipping of my bag in the Hugh River five days ago travelling the Larapinta grapevine faster than I could walk.

There was something wrong (acknowledged by Roz and John) with the atmosphere in the busy shelter -  lots of awkward silences. I didn’t think anything of it untill a pale looking man called Alex lit up a bong in the middle of the hut. To this day I cannot understand why you would smoke marihuana in front of eight complete strangers. What I would not be surprised about is if the police were waiting for him at Ellery Creek to pull him off the track. You noticed how a minor story like my wet backpack did the rounds on the trail?

It is true, dear reader, the world is full of a huge diversity of people. It sure makes for an exciting and interesting life.

I camped well away from the hut that night.

Grey Bits

You can admire the wonderful images taken by Julie Fletcher at http://www.juliefletcherphotography.com.au/


Do you want to become a guest blogger, write your own story and publish on my blog? I would love to hear from you. Email me at storiesfrommars@gmail.com
 

Believe it or not but Standley Chasm Resort owns the only free washing machine on the Larapinta for hikers. The shower was somewhat dribbly but I was certainly not complaining.

  

Find out more about this magical place at

http://www.standleychasm.com.au/about-standley-chasm

Larapinta 11: Decomposing Bodies.



Climb it, say G'day to the stone-man. He is waiting

This Larapinta trail is a magnificent achievement for the people that built it. Full acknowledgement has to go to all the volunteers, contractors, and parks and wildlife staff involved since its inception in 2006. I found the quality of the signage excellent; it is hard to get lost if you are not subconsciously ignoring important blue triangles through exhaustion. Maybe a couple of times I told myself that I just new better than any map or sign. Believe me, on every such occasion, I wanted to kick myself up the backside as hard as I could.

 

 

Friday 22 July 2016
 

Amazing thinly sliced rocks

 

Section 4:  Birthday Waterhole to Standley Chasm

Section 4 is a 17.7km section. You will need to camp overnight to finish the section.

The trail follows the high quartzite ridges of the Chewings Range to the summit of Brinkley Bluff, where you will be rewarded with breathtaking views in all directions.



Breathtaking

Steeply descending from the Bluff, the trail enters Stuart's Pass, an upper branch of the Hugh River. It then follows this river valley to Birthday Waterhole.
 

Information taken from the government website.

Going up Brinkley Bluff was a pleasure due to the rebuilding of the track. It was soft underfoot, went up as gently as it could and avoided major dramatic rock confrontations. Nevertheless, you still have to get up there.

I caught up with the Victorians, who weren't looking at all victorious; half way up the hill. Together we had morning tea next to a hidden waterhole among a beautiful crop of psychads. We were all buzzing from the climb and the chat was humorous and welcoming. Sometimes, things just take a little time. I guess not everyday a tall bloke, like me, all smelling of ol’ sweaty spice, chin bumfluff  and that hollowed-out look, barges into the place you planned to sleep. I can imagine a bit of trepidation. ’What if he’s got an axe?’

  

 

I challenged myself and pushed myself up the remaining, steepest part of the hill where I sat down for the infamous pasta and coffee meal. One by one, the east-coasters arrived in varying states of exhaustion; each spending a bit of time chatting to me as they sat down to recover from the climb.
 




One of the many varieties of butterflies on this track

Brinkley Bluff is another spot where I have serious regret about not staying overnight as the government website suggests. It is one of the highest points in the area and has killer, surrounding views. My lawyer (who you will meet later today) told me he spent the night up here all by himself with millions of stars. He said he laid on his back, being able to see our galaxy stretch out in front of him while watching countless shooting stars.

A sign of life. Airplanes in the red centre have very small jet-streams due to the lack of moisture in the air

 

Again, the lack of water made me decide to walk on. I followed the contour of the stunning ridge gently down. Dear reader, my apologies for repeating myself but the view from up there was a cracker and is locked into my memory forever.

 



The view from Brinkley Bluff of the ridge looking east towards Standley Chasm

Long ago, before people there was the DREAMTIME.  

A giant caterpillar or Yiperinye came up,

came up from underneath the earth at Mount Zeil, 

crawled across the land

leaving behind Tjuritja

the West MacDonnell Ranges

and disappeared at

Alice Springs

 

This story was told by Lofty Katakarinja, a story passed

 on to him by song and dance over many generations.

Some of the earliest drawings of man; the caterpillar stripes at Emily Gap

I was unjustifiably irate when, to top the day off, the track lead through a messy creek bed for two kilometres. My feet feeling, despite the engineered, rear-end cushioning like someone had stuck them in a blender. Suddenly, the sign appeared, joyously, announcing that Standley Chasm would only be another seven hundred metres. Walking that last stretch over a flat, bitumised road is a strange sensation after braving chunky rocks for so long - the sound of cars overwhelming after the soft sounds of nature.
 

Signs of better things to come

I set up camp next to the car park at the chasm and could only muster a lamely limp to the toilet block as everything hurt that late afternoon. On my way there a jovial gentleman with a semi-grey beard who sat writing in his diary and noted the state I was in. He told me he was struggling with the trail so much, he was surprised nobody had found his decomposing corps on the side of the track. I told him I wasn't far off laying down next to him.

Instantly we talked about the moving community on the Larapinta trail. There was the fast talking/walking Douglas; the fantastic four including the girl with one thong; and many more to chat about. I told my lawyer about Roz and John and the Melbournian hikers he was yet to meet.

 

We were invited to join a Polish family around a bon-fire they had set up. No longer surprised to hear they were in this area to compete in the World Rogaining Championship as a family. It was a revitalizing night full of laughs that went on till way after my dreamtime. Nine thirty???

 



The Yeperenye caterpillar, photo courtesy of Word press

Grey Bits

 

There is an informative government website that will tell you many great stories, ancient history and more about the West MacDonnell's including Lofty's tail   http://www.nt.gov.au/westmacs/stories/culture/all/175

 



I suspect this is a Dusky Grass Wren found in the creek bed
before the chasm. Let me know if this is not the DGW 

If you like my blog, please feel free to share it with others.

Do you want to become a guest blogger, write your own story and publish on my blog? I would love to hear from you. Email me at storiesfrommars@gmail.com 

Larapinta 10. Caught by a Razorback.

"Every mountain top is within reach if you just keep climbing"


After saying a warm goodbye to my six comrades who were walking in the opposite direction, I set off through Hugh Gorge renowned for its wading spots. Jumping from rock to rock or stumbling through the gravelly, dried creek I came to appreciate or not appreciate the difficulties of hiking through the obstacle minefield that is a creek-bed in the West Macs.

 

First contact with the water

 
 

 

Thursday 21 July 2016

Section 5: Hugh Gorge to Birthday Waterhole

Section 5 is a 16km section. You will need to camp overnight to finish the section.

This challenging section of the trail passes through Spencer Gorge, along the spine of Razorback Ridge and then down the narrow Linear Valley to the junction with the Hugh River. The trail follows natural watercourses and you may need to walk around pools of water in Hugh Gorge.

 

Information from the government website



One of the whistling kites common of this area waiting long enough for me to capture it.

At the first wading spot, I changed my shoes to the sandals I had been carrying for over a week. The water was pleasantly chilled. One of the engineers mentioned that it was only knee deep. Maybe he thought I was taller as the water came up to my waste instantly destroying a bag of nuts and a muesli bar that I kept in my pocket to munch on. There wasn’t a friendly traffic controller or survival expert out there to tell me what the best way around or through this creek. Alone I battled on - up steep rocks- climbing in and over trees - sometimes holding on to branches – dropping my pack over rocks and jumping after it – grazing my legs  - cutting my hands. I started talking to myself or more like berating my clumsiness, which isn't a good sign. At one stage, I was wading through the water when suddenly the ground disappeared. I flipped backwards due to the heavy load I carried and dipped my pack into the black water of the creek. Luckily the weather was warm enough to dry out my sleeping bag and mattress.

Nature: One - Mars: Zero.  

 




There was no way around this water

It took me two and a half hours to thrash myself through this three kilometre stretch.

The narrow gorge spilled into this amazing opening in a much wider part of the valley called Hugh Gorge Junction which was surrounded by red cliff faces. I explained to the four hikers, who had spent the night there, about the wading they still had to encounter. They were curious as to why I was so wet and was bleeding in several places. There were plenty of 'oh wells' and the shrugging of shoulders coming from them during our conversation, but fear grew in the eyes of the two girls of the group.
 

The gorge opening up to Hugh Gorge Junction

 

A long, gradual climb ended at a saddle (Rocky Saddle) which had the most amazing views. Here, I met a cheerful young man from Ireland, who had also stopped there to admire the beauty of the area. We both stood in awe of our surrounds and expletives flowed freely.

By hunger-time, I had made my way down to the Fringe Lily campsite. The lack of a water tank at this campsite proved the catalyst for me to move on. I started the day with a heavy five litres and was basically forced to walk on. Two and a half litres is not enough to survive another 24 hours for a post recovering kidney stone victim.

'You will die without water.' A little voice in the back of my head rung out.
 



The view from Rocky Saddle

 

At Fringe Lily Campsite, I finally read the maps and notes on the Larapinta trail and became aware that section five and six are not to be underestimated and that I should have taken at least two more days to complete Ellery creek to Standley Chasm. Note to self: 'Read the government info PROPERLY. The hiking around this area is extremely technical, but evenly matched in beauty.

 



The view looking back west from Razorback, the track up Rocky Saddle on the right


I was lost immediately after lunch for about twenty minutes. My brain subconsciously dismissing the blue arrow pointing up a ridiculous wall, walking straight past in the creek bed until the lack of signage became so obvious a goldfish would have turned back long ago.

 

A shadow selfie on the edge

 

The anger I felt towards myself was soon burned up on this hair raising edge. It isn't often that I stop to look for extended periods of time at something, but Razorback Ridge is a spell-binding, wild experience not to be missed on the Larapinta. The name such an incredibly apt description of the shape of this beast. Sharp - rocky – steep drop on both sides – rugged – dangerous – untamed with views galore. Being on an incredible, possibly, endorphin induced high, there is only one way to go from there.

 

DOwn
 

The giant row of peaks and troughs, like a bad day on Wall Street

 

A totally impossible riverbed, or should I say a dry waterfall without a track, presented itself out the back of the razorback experience. Spencer Gorge, remember that name when you go walking there. Three hours of bum-sliding, lowering yourself, and jumping downwards turning your legs to jittery unstable elastic bands. I felt sorry for those smiling, shirt-cladded women I passed that had to have climbed up here.

 

Late in the afternoon I finally completed sixteen kilometres in ten hours of hiking.

A tough day in 'cheap' boots.

 

I found the strangely named 4/5 junction hut full with almost all camping pads used. A Melbournian walking group had taken over and it was hard to find a space. I thought back to my six engineers and missed their humor, banter and conversations. I also thought back regretfully to the many pristine spots I could have camped on my own under the stars. Maybe I was just tired from a gruelling, adventurous day.


Grey Bits

 
Timing is everything they say. Unfortunately, I don't think I timed my hike very well in this section having set myself an unrealistic deadline to meet Julie at Standley Chasm. My advice is to camp out at Fringe Lily, Hugh Gorge Junction or any other spot you can find and break this section in two as the website suggests. This is truly a special stretch of the Larapinta trail and should be given all the rubbernecking, oohs and aahs it deserves.

To my own surprise, it was at Fringed Lily campsite I made the mad commitment to myself to walk the trail again - especially this stretch of the Larapinta.

The opening quote of this blog is from Barry Finlay, Author and Mountaineer.

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A tree on the edge

Do you want to become a guest blogger, write your own story and publish on my blog? I would love to hear from you. Email me at storiesfrommars@gmail.com

  

Larapinta 9. The Choice Between Sore Feet and Haemorrhoids


I managed to get away before any of the seven hikers that were camped in Ellery Creek - not that it was a race I told myself. I was keen to put in a good distance on this day and rushed through the first section in the cool shade of the MacDonnell range. I went up and down the saddle too quickly, stumbling dangerously on a couple of occasions. An area of exposed and relative flat invited me to walk fast and without any breaks to Rocky Gully campsite. I washed myself under the tap as sweat was pouring off me during my fast journey of the rising sun - temperatures reaching the high twenties at midday.





The gnarly root systems of the Eucalyptus trees around Ellery Creek 

Section 6: Ellery Creek to Hugh Gorge

Section 6 is a 31.2km section. You will need to camp overnight to finish the section.

This section takes you across the Alice Valley from Hugh Gorge, in the Chewings Range, to Ellery Creek Big Hole in the Heavitree Range. 

It is one of the longest sections of the trail.

 

Information from the government website.

 

The large elaborate lunch made a welcome return. Pasta and coffee; a combination I would never dream consuming together anywhere else, but a necessary energy boost under these circumstances. Roz and John joined me at the campsite and we discussed continuing on as we all felt pretty fresh after a morning's hike. This 16 kilometre stretch did not include a Big Hill, crazy left turn or a steep cliff face to hang oneself off.

John and Roz at Rocky Gully

 

This area is Australian Australia. Red desert, low scrub, dry creek crossings under a blue sky. The next possible campsite was Ghost Gum Flat, only seven kilometres away. Again, a massive afternoon tea. Roz and John decided to stay. 'How great would it be to hike this 31.2 section in one hit.'? thought the competitive nutter within me. So I packed up once more and set off at 4pm.

One of the two stunning Corkwood trees at Ghost Gum Flat

The sun setting in rich golden tones, playing with the colours of the grasses and rocks. This is a great time of the day to be walking. Sounds like all is wonderful, right?

The sun setting over the Australian bush.

 

It is now time to introduce you to my shoes. After I gave my shoes to Smiddy, my porter at the end of the Kokoda track, I have had terrible trouble finding shoes that would fit the enormous kayaks protruding forward from underneath my body. I compromised and spent fifty dollars on a pair of clodhoppers from a, to remain nameless, shoe shop where famously one would spend a lot less. The insoles after a week of hiking had just about  evaporated. The floor of my shoe had the reverse contour mirroring the soul of my shoe. Basically, it was like walking on a bed of blunt, hard-rubber spikes. Maseur sandals gone wrong! I was in a desperate state; almost ready to chuck in the towel when I finally limped into the Hugh River campsite.




A long-nosed dragon spotted in the area

At this beautiful campsite, which donned the same style hut as at Finke River and Serpentine Gorge, I found six gentlemen who immediately engaged in one of the friendliest conversations ever. I was introduced to each and every one, asked a lot of questions and made to feel welcome in the hut. After setting up and having a quick wash, I sat down in the fading light cooking and chatting away. It turned out that the six went to the same university and studied engineering, many years ago. When they were  young lads, they had the great idea of putting together a communal bucket list. Each year they would hike and holiday together knocking one of the items off the list. One of them said that he was looking forward to the first cruise that was due on the list in a couple of years as hiking has slowly become more difficult.
 

Six of the best shoe engineers, Steve second from the right, the man whom I possibly have caused a bout of haemorrhoids

 

When they became aware of the problems of my shoes all six of them poured over the two vessels and discussed how to improve my situation. One of the bucket-list members, Steve, sacrificed his foam, square sheet he used to sit on hard benches like the ones in the hut. A pile-preventing measure. Why not!!! I was able to cut new insoles and improve my footwear beyond recognition. I thanked him profusely.

A pile of discarded old boots at Glen Helen with lots of bush engineering

That night there were a lot of noises disturbing the quiet surrounds. It was obvious the dried hiking food was wreaking havoc with the ol' fellahs.

The longest section of the trail completed in one day. Nuts - but satisfying. 


Grey Bits

 
Remind me to never compromise on hiking shoes. They are the  most important tools of the trade you have out there. If I had to do it over again, I would have made sure my shoes were of good quality, walked in and comfortable.

One of the drawbacks of aging expressed itself in the middle age spreading of my feet. What I thought of as completely acceptable size eleven 20 years ago has now sagged to a pes planus size 13 and a half. Trying to buy my size in a regular shop has somehow become near impossible.

'Buy proper shoes, Mars!'

When you are hiking the Larapinta expect your toes to bang up against the front of your shoes on the downhill and your heal to reverse and slide against the back when ascending. I have read somewhere to buy shoes one size bigger to allow for this fierce friction. Imagine buying shoes size 14 and a half?!!

On my return to Alice Springs it took me no time at all to pick my next hiking shoes. I went to the only hiking shop in town where I had the choice of ONE pair which had to be ordered in. I am walking them in as much as I can to get them ready for my next adventure. Not surprisingly, they have started to feel a little small. Thanks to all the friendly staff who helped me out with my impossible feet and thanks again to the six engineers for solving my foot conundrum out in the sticks. 

If you like my blog, please feel free to share it with others.

Do you want to become a guest blogger, write your own story and publish on my blog? I would love to hear from you. Email me at storiesfrommars@gmail.com