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Every trail ends
differently – the Kokoda track ended with an unforgettable glorious PNG national
anthem being sung by the porters on top of that last grassy knoll - when I walked
the last stretch of my solo Bibbulmun (don’t
forget it is 960km) I was treated with a picnic by my beloved, 6km from the end,
the Rocky theme was sang to me through the phone and a hospital visit followed
to clean out an infected toe (all with a smile on my face) - the Great Ocean
trail ended in a magnificent stroll to the 71 Apostles (does anyone really know
how many are left?) - the Annapurna ended in a jump off a row-boat in
Phewa Lake disturbing the mirror image of the Fishtail Mountain – the first
and sectional attempt of the Bibbulmun track ended with the overwhelming urge to
go to the toilet.
It basically all ended up in a state of euphoria!
It basically all ended up in a state of euphoria!
To finish my trek on the Heysen Trail, there was only one
place to be – ‘The Cedars’ Heysen's residence and pride.
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| The winter sun shining through the Himalayan Cedars planted in Heysen's garden |
I strapped the steadily growing pack of pain and supplies to my back again and walked, hunched over towards the bus stop. Quasimodo would have been proud of me. With a heavy heart I stood there waiting for the bus to Adelaide. ‘Its for the best’ I reassured myself. I had booked a rental car from the airport and two bus trips later I was heading for the Adelaide Hills in a little sedan.
Seeing a couple of
the Heysen trail signs flash by around Hahndorf, I instantly missed the
slow-motion visions of the natural wander. In my humble opinion and after many
years of hiking, I know cars don’t care much for the soul. They make me lazy, blasé about distances and disconnect me from my surrounds. I easily
churned up over 100km in a couple of hours, more than the total I had walked
in five days.
I entered the front door of the museum after getting
a sneaky look at the garden and the magnificent cedar trees that are spread through the large,
hilly property. A tour was set to start only five minutes later. Hans had bought the property in 1912 and lived right there until
his death 46 years later.
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| A water feature next to the back door |
The Heysen’s residence was a classy affair. Our guide
explained how they were great entertainers. Many famous people visited
and sat at the same dinner table still placed in the heart of the building - unfortunately, no photos were allowed of the inside of the cottage.
There wasn't a piece of blank wall left. Magnificent still-life artworks, as well
as studies and landscapes, took up every inch of the stylish but cosy
property.
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| The Heysen's house warmly hugged by the Cedars |
Hans Heysen did well for himself and his family (eight children). They lived a comfortable life at 'The Cedars'. His car, an absolute classic Ford, is still parked in
the old garage next to what has to be one of the earliest caravans ever built
in this country. These vehicles obviously used to travel all along the Flinders Ranges, the Fluerieu Peninsular and the rest of South Australia.
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| The classic Ford in sepia setting |
One of his paintings was auctioned and sold while I was,
coincidently, walking the trail named in his honour and fetched $110,000. Not a bad payday for whoever
owned it.
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| The studio - where many a masterpiece was painted |
In the tall, beautifully lit studio the click of connection with the talented
man finally came to me. The guide flipped out several printed versions of paintings out of a large file and
there it was – the stretch of coast just outside of Encounter Bay - already forever
imprinted in my mind - out in wonderful water colours - infusing the exact feeling I felt when, I swear, I stood there for real looking at it in awe. I would buy that painting if I had the money - tell my grandkids and anyone who will listen about my crazy and difficult experiences on this trail that were so rewarding and about the love I share for this country with
that man Heysen.
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| Photo courtesy of nga.gov.au/exhibition/HEYSEN |
No need to look any further. I found the light!
The End
Grey Bits
Here is the website once more if you plan to walk the Heysen Trail - heysentrail.asn.au
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| Hans at his easel in his studio |
Find out more about the record breaking, recent sale of the Heysen painting ($110,000) by clicking on this link www.adelaidenow.com.au
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