I said farewell to my stinky overnight companion ‘Cadaver Jack’ and amidst magpie calls, the sound of little wrens and more South Australian birds I had never heard before, I headed up the hill. For a couple of hundred metres I walked on a ridge resembling a broad firebreak with the bush on one side recently burnt. The views from there were stunning and my camera was working hard to keep up with all that melancholy a scorched forest evokes.
After a large descent through the blackened landscape, I came to the bottom of a fence. Anyone that has ever hiked knows that fences are not welcome on a trail. Any kind of man made barrier is constructed by guys on utes or motorbikes and if they are any good at their craft, dead straight up or down a hill. Walking alongside a fence is, until the end of time, a torturous affair especially without a switchback in sight. Old railway lines to walk on, 'yes'. Along fences, a definite 'no'.
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| The trail hard up against the fence |
Most hikers must suffer from severe memory loss. How else did I find myself on the side of this fence pushing myself up the slope? Soon snippets of the Kokoda track and its unreasonable steep hills, patches of climbs on the Larapinta trail and that slippery gravel of the Bibbulmun track came flooding back as I wrestled with this mongrel. Remember? It hurts!!!
The same hikers pest appeared again without apparent reason. This time a fully equipped electric fence. What the costs of building and maintaining kilometres of Berlinesque ugliness must be is any ones guess. Without a single cow in sight I must ask, what are we trying to keep in? - or should the question be – what are we trying to keep out? Doesn’t this make it all the more tempting to take a thrill-seeking jump over the fence and find out what Waco, doom prepping, nudist colony is singing its chants behind this barricade? Has this farmer found more than one wife and is worshipped into guru status while casually being driven in yet another Mercedes? Would it be worth risking electrocuted hands and genitals to find out the answer?
I was more than relieved to see Trig Campsite appear on top
of the hill, with the need for strong coffee and a muesli bar to get over it all.
Only 5km and I am, excuse me, pooped.
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| Views over Deep Creek Conservation Park |
The next 6km were unforgettable. The air was moist and redolent of musky earth. The track gradually wound itself down through the small gum trees so prevalent in this area. At times it opened up and the views over the forest-covered hills were magnificent.
The slope increased its downward angle and the sound of rushing water came closer with every step. Several man-made flights of stairs lead to a spur trail. Having turned off the trail, the noise of the rampant water now deafening and announcing a tall gushing waterfall - the highlight of this trail so far.
The fall cascaded into black water, very much alike the tea-tree infused rivers of South Western Australia. Beige foam frothed up and clung to the shoreline of a picturesque flowing creek. My pack of pain came off in an instant and I found a rock to sit and stare at this steaming water feature and was lost in its beauty.
My peace was suddenly disturbed when from behind me, three stunning, athletic young ladies appeared from the forest. They quickly changed their sweaty t-shirts for dry ones to prevent getting cold, a very short 5 metres in front of me - the waterfall losing its appeal rapidly. I awkwardly looked at the pale bubbles at the side of the river and tried to ignore the ultimate lone male hikers mirage that was on full display in front of a gorgeous waterfall.
I told the girls that they were the first people I saw in a day and a half on the trail. They were a friendly bunch and the four of us chatted briefly. They took photos of each other posing in front of the fall and I offered to take a couple on their phones. Somehow, one of the girls ended up in the bottom corner of one of my shots, creating the opening photo in this blog. Soon they left me on my rock, with my waterfall where I smiled to myself thinking life was good.
Grey Bits
The above story is fully approved by my supporting partner Julie.
This stretch of the Heysen Trail is only 7km but, due to its undulating nature, it may take longer than normal to complete. Reading back over this blog it may appear that I am complaining about how hard it is to walk this trail but I was enjoying every minute of the challenge.
If you would like to explore Deep Creek, check out the following website www.environment.sa.gov.au/parks
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| Guardian of the melon |
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