‘What the……’??? I awoke with a shock by the sound of voices in the night. Flashes of head torches blinding my caked up eyes. What time is it? 4am?? A large group of hikers noisily clonked past my tent. Soon, more came all chatting along excitedly. I realised that there must be a couple of very early sunrise tours to the top of Mount Sonder. Unfortunately, I have put my tent right next to the trail. Exhausted from blowing my nose and the sounds of the wiggles in my head, I roll back over. Cold air biting my face inside the tent. No need to hurry I told myself lazily.
Monday 11 July 2016
Section 12: Redbank Gorge to Mt Sonder return
Section 12: Redbank Gorge to Mt Sonder return
Section 12 is a 15.8km return section of the Larapinta Trail.
It is a very difficult climb to the peak of Mt Sonder but is
worth the effort. There are breathtaking views in all directions. The view
looks over ranges, plains, valleys and salt lakes. This is a place to
experience the grandeur of the desert landscape.
Information from the Government website on the Larapinta trail
The decision making process was very slow, almost non-existent that
morning. My head feeling like it was invaded by several herds of woolly sheep. After
a huge bowl of cereal and fake milk (powdered) I had gathered up enough energy to slam a
daypack together and get started. I left my tent and contents in the creek bed
and carried some basics for the ascent to Mount Sonder.
Why I left my lunch and sunglasses in my tent is still a mystery to me.
Why I left my lunch and sunglasses in my tent is still a mystery to me.
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| The exposed trail up Mount Sonder, early in the morning |
First, I would like to acknowledge the
traditional owners, the Arrente people, of the land I am about to embark. It is an absolute privilege
to be able to wander through this ancient land of our indigenous ancestors.
 |
| Magnificent Arrente country. The land ahead waiting for me |
It was cold, but the wind became seriously freezing the higher I climbed the ridges of Mount Sonder. My right ear feeling frost bitten by the icy cross breeze started aching on the inside. My word!!!! This desert gets cold. I fished my raincoat out of my backpack to stop the wind from blowing straight through my clothes. I realised that I was no longer on that balmy Kokoda trail. The upwards gradient wasn't too bad but there were some flat, luxurious sections where I could catch my breath. All the way up I greeted many hikers returning from the top, mostly woman, that looked red-faced, with teeth chattering and wrapped up in thick layers of clothes. Mild hyperthermia, the best punishment for waking this sleeping nomad earlier that morning I thought without justification.
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| The only companion up the top was a jar of squashed peanuts. Excuse the brand placement |
Meanwhile, the views were
getting better as I went along and when I reached the end of the trail the view
was grandiose. Towards the North (relatively close by) is the actual insurmountable Mount Sonder summit. The wind dropped away, the
sun warmed everything up (squint) and I found myself up there all alone with my
jar of peanut butter for at least one hour. I stood up there, for a while, with
arms outstretched as if I was flying. Brilliant spot!!!
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| Views of the actual summit of Mount Sonder from the end of the trail |
On the way down the views were
open and magnificent. I got a good look
at the highest peak in the Northern Territory, Mount Zeil. Zeil meaning sail mountain in
Dutch.
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| Mount Zeil in the distance (1.531m tall) |
Back in the riverbank of the
Redbank Gorge, I moved my tent away from the track and under a tree for shade. The
scouts had left, but a woman had pitched her tent not far from me. I initiated a conversation with her. It turns
out she was of Latvian decent, appeared a little shy and had really struggled throughout
this hike. The Latvian lady told me she had learnt a lot about hiking during her stint on the Larapinta and that she had run out of money. The lone hiker asked me if she
could borrow my gas burner to boil some water for a packet of dried mashed
potato. She said she had a gas bottle but hadn't brought a burner???? No problem, needless to say, as trekkers like us always tend
to share and help each other as much as possible.
A week later I learned that a
hiker had a gas bottle and some food stolen from their supply box at the Ellery Creek
storeroom. What a low thing to do! Most of the contents of these supply boxes
are carefully balanced and messing with it can blow any plan of walking this
trail. Try walking here without food. I just put two and two together!!!
Did you?
Did you?
The polished quartzite walls of Redbank
Gorge gradually changed colour from bright red - to dark purple - to dark brown as
the sun went down. I was in the tent
writing when the haunting sound of a howling dingo disturbed the evening. A seriously
melancholic but chilling wail echoing off the cliffs making it sound like a whole pack
of dingo’s. Fear gripped me for an
instant but then I just told myself not to be a baby.
Grey Bits
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| A dingo spotted at Kings Canyon |
https://nt.gov.au/leisure/recreation/bushwalking-hiking/larapinta-trail
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| Looking down with that 'flying feeling' |
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