Kokoda 8. The Joy of Papua

"Now I don’t know a lot of you by name, but I know you.

We met at Isurava. We fought there together and every step of the way here.

Now we are relieved and we will leave the battle.

And every day the enemy supply line stretches further. He suffers now as you have suffered.

The battle we fought for the track may have just saved your nation. At Imita we will stop him.

Brigadier wants you to know…your gallantry, your courage, your fortitude are an inspiration.

And I want you to know that you are some of the finest soldiers that I have ever seen.

You have seen things in this place that no man should witness.

Some of these things you must forget. But history will remember you,

and in the years to come others will wish that they had your conviction.

And remember…remember the glory is not the exhortation of war, but the exhortation of man.

Mans nobility, made transcendent in the fiery crucible of war.

Faithfulness and fortitude.

Gentleness and compassion.

I am honoured to be your brother.” 

  

Lt Col Ralph Honner DSO M

Lt Col Ralph Honner's speech to his men (39th Militia Battalion) after their stand on the Kokoda track, Menari village 6th Sep. 1942

Wednesday 15 June 2016 - Agulogo to Iriabaiwa


We awoke to misty cool conditions. First up, the biggest river crossing on the Kokoda track. The porters kicked into action, working hard to get us and our luggage across safely. The water, rather fresh for this time of day, streaming past underneath us at a rapid rate. We needed to balance on a couple of slippery, dew covered logs, with ropes strung along side. The logs only reached halfway across the river. In the water it goes!

The adventurous log crossing  

After the successful crossing, we were pleasantly surprised by a two kilometre stage through a muddy swamp-like flat. What no hills?

Holding the rope tight for our crossing

Obviously lured into a false sense of security by the only flat spot on the Kokoda track, we were hit by nine false peaks or ten gruelling tops if you like. I joined the majority of our hikers and became an honourable member of the ‘fall down club'. Twice I pirouetted with my hiking stick dangerously flailing through the air, then I found myself sliding on my back-side - with feet ending up hanging over a substantial drop. Slipping another half a metre further would have made it very interesting.
 


A bed of slippy roots

I wrote in my diary that day ‘today I can safely tell you that this trail is the most difficult I have ever been on. Hands down. Fair Dinkum’!!!

After the huge drop into the valley, we all tumbled into the river celebrating the fact that we got through the rigours of the day. We all loved being in the water. One of the most popular questions to Cameron - our guide in the jungle - was ‘when can we swim?’ Marcus, the bloke part of the honourable kiwi-couple, tramping with us was given the nickname ‘Polar Bear’ as he loved the frosty water and was always the first one to dive in.

Mark - after a hard day of hiking and swimming

We all experienced a very strange sensation bordering on the morbid. Here we were, splashing about in Ofi creek having a great time. The next moment we were all thinking back to 1942 when many Japanese soldiers were killed in a massive ambush right here - at this exact spot! It was said that the water turned red from the blood of the fallen.

The water of Ofi Creek

We had an energy regenerating lunch up in the village but with ten minutes to go I realised I did not have any photos of Ofi creek. Having scored the photography job on this Kokoda track adventure, I felt it was important to return to the site and asked if I could traverse the hundred metres back down to the river. With permission granted, I took in the charm of the gorgeous flowing creek all by myself for some time. The reddish setting of my camera seemed an appropriate match to the distressing history of the arena.




The river turned red

Smiddy told me he heard about my fall and blamed himself, apologised profusely and spent the next two hours hot on my heals telling me to slow down and be careful. Obviously, Smiddy is not to blame for my clumsiness, but it shows you how much he cared. You can clearly see that Smiddy and the other porters have the same kindness running through their veins as the affectionately named Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels of 42’.















Smiddy - the man!

The local Papua New Guineans were employed by the Australians in 1942 to carry heavy supplies up and down the Kokoda track. Many diggers, that would have otherwise died on the spot, were stretchered out of the track by the porters. There are many stories told by our diggers of friendship, loyalty and care that reached far beyond the boundaries of employment.


'Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels'

Many a mother in Australia
when the busy day is done
Sends a prayer to the Almighty
for the keeping of her son
Asking that an angel guide him
and bring him safely back
Now we see those prayers are answered
on the Owen Stanley Track

For they haven't any halos
only holes slashed in their ears
And their faces worked by tattoos
with scratch pins in their hair
Bringing back the badly wounded
just as steady as a horse
Using leaves to keep the rain off
and as gentle as a nurse

Shell getting into it with the porters helping out

  

Slow and careful in the bad places
on the awful mountain track
The look upon their faces
would make you think Christ was black
Not a move to hurt the wounded
as they treat him like a saint
It's a picture worth recording
that an artist's yet to paint
 

The Fuzzy Wuzzy's in action on the Kokoda track.
Photo courtesy of Activist news

Many a lad will see his mother
and husbands see their wives
Just because the fuzzy wuzzy
carried them to save their lives
From mortar bombs and machine gun fire
or chance surprise attacks
To the safety and the care of doctors
at the bottom of the track

May the mothers of Australia
when they offer up a prayer
Mention those impromptu angels
with their fuzzy wuzzy hair.

Sapper Bert Beros

NX6925, 7th Australian Division, Royal Australian Engineers

I shared my fruit 'n' nut mix and muesli bars with Smiddy and bought him a fizzy drink and fruit here and there. I shook his hand every afternoon thanking him for his cheerful companionship and extraordinary efforts to keep me safe. I appreciated his spirited ‘chii chiieee’ calls to his mates or just to express his happiness. A chant I tried copying but never was able to do it any justice.



Smiddy taking my pack across the river

Every day we were blessed with the infectious joy of the porters - their laughter spontaneous and straight from the soul - their folk songs soothing and joyful. ‘Chii Chiieee’.

The songs they sang at Isurava and Brigade Hill will be edged in my memory forever. This is their national anthem.

O arise all you sons of this land
  Let us sing of our joy to be free, 
   Praising God and rejoicing to be
Papua New Guinea

      Shout our name from the mountains to the seas
Papua New Guinea;
Let us raise our voices and proclaim
Papua New Guinea

One of the porters who lived in Ioribaiwa being reunited
with his kids

Now give thanks to the good Lord above
For his kindness, His Wisdom love
For this land of our fathers so free
Papua New Guinea

Singing the Papuan National Anthem at Brigade Hill

      Shout again for the whole world to hear
Papua New Guinea
We're independent and we're free,
Papua New Guinea

We were promised an excellent spot to watch the sunset and Ioribaiwa did not disappoint. After cold showers and a change of clothes we all hung out on the benches that were made for such an occasion.

 

A stunner at Iorabaiwa

Meanwhile in September of 1942 the thump and scamper strategy was still full swing. Another significant battle ensued around the village of Ioribaiwa without Brigadier Arnold Potts who was unjustly sacked by General Blamey for the defeat at Brigade Hill. Cameron explained to us that Brigade Hill is a tactically inept place for a defensive stand and it would have been suicide to hold those positions.



Brigadier Arnold Potts immortalised
in bronze at Kojonup,WA

Again the Aussie's retreated.....

 Grey Bits

Brigadier Potts originates from Kojonup, West Australia. I found the following link interesting
http://monumentaustralia.org.au/themes/people/military/display/60702-brigadier-arnold-potts-

A well written biography of the Brigadier can be found at http://adb.anu.edu.au/biography/potts-arnold-william-11448

If you would like to read more about the Battle of Ioribaiwa click on the following link
http://www.army.gov.au/Our-history/History-in-Focus/Battle-of-Ioribaiwa



No battle here at Ioribaiwa that evening as Nataly
and Daniel shared a romantic moment

The following link contains more information about Ralph Honner.http://kokodahistorical.com.au/diggers-stories/ralph-honner-dso-mc



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