We have touched down after an eventful flight at Kokoda airfield and are making our way to Deniki. The Twin Otter plane left parked at the end of the grassy slope that resembles an airfield.
There is no turning back!!!
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| Kokoda memorial sight |
Thursday 10 June 2016
Those first steps were taken out in the bright sunlight with a fair degree of humidity in the air. After a brief walk we climbed a tiny mound on which the Kokoda memorial sight was situated. We were reunited with the first group that landed many hours before us who must have been pretty worried by now. Standing on a beautiful, well maintained grassy hill, Cam told us about the first battle on the Kokoda track that occurred on and around this hill.
Those first steps were taken out in the bright sunlight with a fair degree of humidity in the air. After a brief walk we climbed a tiny mound on which the Kokoda memorial sight was situated. We were reunited with the first group that landed many hours before us who must have been pretty worried by now. Standing on a beautiful, well maintained grassy hill, Cam told us about the first battle on the Kokoda track that occurred on and around this hill.
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| Our first walk to the small, flat memorial ground ahead |
Captain Samuel Victor Templeton (1900-1942)
Well known for his actions with the 39th Battalion as the commander of ‘B’ Company during the first Battle of Kokoda. He went missing in action on the 26 July 1942 near the village of Oivi. It is believed that Templeton attempted to warn his men of the approaching Japanese Forces but was never seen again. Templeton was believed to have been killed in action at this time.
Many years later an Australian prisoner came forward, who in Japanese captivity, identified Sam as a fellow inmate and even spoke a few words to him just days after his disappearance. It is believed that the Captain was tortured and revealed convincing, but false information about the strength of the Australian troops. It appears that Sam was so convincing that it delayed the Japanese by 10 days. In those 10 days, the 450 Aussie diggers recaptured Kokoda airfield and set up a defensive stronghold at Isurava. The Japanese, prior to this interrogation, were steaming up the track conquering all before them at great speed. Hence the question should be asked 'Is Sam Templeton, by delaying the Japanese invasion, the man that saved Australia?
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| Captain Sam Templeton |
It is believed that the Captain was killed by Colonel Hatsuo Tsukamoto's wielding sword after infuriating the Colonel.
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Frank, one of the leaders read out the role call in
which every porter was cheered on by the group as they were introduced to their
hiker. A joyful occasion with broad smiles and firm handshakes all around.
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| Smid (second from the left) with his brothers and brother-in-law |
This is where I met Smid for the first time. A
bearded, lean young guy with an almost Rastafarian aura surrounding him. I took
an instant liking to the Papua New Guinean.
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| Jo N and her porter |
Six of us chose not to have porters and total kudos
goes their way for doing this trail the hard way. They have to be mentioned. My own bro-in-law Simon, our resident kiwis Tanya and Mark, Kelsey, tough man Craig
and the father and son team Greame and Kristian who shared a porter and one
really heavy looking bag between them.
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| Simon and his imaginary porter |
I caught Smid laughing and smiling while taking turns
lifting my bag with his brother–in-law. I asked them to fill me in on the joke
and they told me the bag was very light and they both took a lot of joy out of this. Did I not mention that less
is more before?
After a photo session underneath the arches which
marks for us the start of the Kokoda track we hit the trail for real. I must admit
I was a little apprehensive and wondered how my knee was going to hold up. I started singing the Police song “Walking on the Moon” and walked as slow as possible to warm up the ol’ knee. After the 'Police' tune, Smiddy and I were belting out Bob Marley songs, badly.
I
explained to Smid that in Australia short names are made longer and long names
are made shorter and, therefore, Smiddy, Mars and our sizable group walked from
the open valley into a dense rubber tree forest.
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| The start of the green tunnel among the rubber trees |
I put my sunnies away in my daypack that day and did not need them again until eight days later - testimonial to how impenetrable the canopy was. The jungle became thicker and more damp as we walked along a relatively flat track for two hours. The early pace was hot. Everyone was excited to get cracking.
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| So much to see in a strange forest |
After entering this green tunnel it felt almost compulsory to
take many photo’s and found myself walking dead last. This is where I spoke to the
great man I dubbed, in my mind, Back End Frank. Franks job was to not lose anyone at the back of the group. I took up the challenge over and over again to have a conversation
with the stoic beetle-nut chomping fellah and managed to crack a wry smile here
and there. Sometimes he even spoke but you would never, ever get in behind him on the track
Smiddy started teaching me some pidgin and
Avarratasohl (no idea how to spell it) soon became our favourite saying. I’m
cool!!! There were some other words learned that cannot be repeated in this blog. Smiddy's mates had a good laugh every time I mentioned one of these words.
There was a memorable, initiating dip into a small, cool creek
with most of us just hopping in clothes and all. A much welcome relief from the
heat. Smiddy offered to refill my water bottles with the water of this creek. He
went some way upstream and after dropping a couple of purifying tablets I was
drinking the crystal, clear creek water of Papua New Guinea. There is a first
for everything.
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| The refreshing creek of the first day |
It was Peter Fitzsimons' writing in his book 'Kokoda' that
warned me about the conditions. He stated that the track “reared up at
them rather like an angry snake with bite more or less the same” and the last
hour or so was a blunt lesson of what this actually meant.
That first day Kristian was feeling the pinch. His
shoulders were sore from the heavy pack and I passed them at the moment where
Cam was intensely talking to the young man. To his credit, he did not turn back or
give up, but fought it out together with his Dad. Cam nicknamed
Kristian “legend”. A fitting name for the youngest member of our team and
the youngest ever to hike Kokoda with Cameron being the guide.
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| Kristian - our young gun |
A sudden traffic jam of hikers appeared along a
stretch where water soaked the track and to my delight they were all looking at
several exquisite butterflies that were drinking the water. There it is the
Kokoda track - steeped in history - heavy fighting all around - missing soldiers in the jungle - now also a place of
beauty and peace.
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| The Kokoda butterflies |
We all survived that first day and to my pleasant surprise I found a line of comrade hikers high-fiving and cheering me on at the edge of Deniki village - our overnight stop.
In the evening after dinner, we all got together for a highs and lows session where everyone was given a turn to talk about their day. For example some people found the waiting involved with the flight a little tedious. Others mentioned how happy they were to be on the track and with a great bunch of people to boot.
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| Cameron pointing out the facts of Kokoda |
That night it rained hard on my tent and the
humidity was stifling. There was no way I was entering my sleeping bag or wearing
anything else other than undies. Excuse the mental picture!
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| Unpredictable tropical weather at Deniki |
Grey Bits
Templeton’s Crossing was named in honour of Captain Sam Templeton. It is the first point where the Kokoda Track, from Port Moresby, crossed Eora Creek. Sam Templeton's body was never recovered.
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| A rubber tree marked for harvesting |
Place Silica Gel bags in your camera bag. They will keep the moist of your camera. You usually find them in the shoebox when purchasing shoes - for free!!!!
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