Walking with sharks: Day 1

 

 
 
I would love to explore planet Mars. What an exciting frontier and new landscape this would prove. Imagine walking in a weird gravitational floating movement. You could see rocks and craters no one has seen before. Would there be water or flowers or alien like animals. Unfortunately Jetstar has no scheduled flights to Mars and it may take a fair chunk out of your life to get there. Maybe it is better to come down to Earth.

On our planet most frontiers have been inundated with so-called civilization, most oceans have been navigated, land has been discovered and mountains have been scaled. To be ground breaking on this planet may take some lateral thinking and something off the wall.

How about walking around the Peron Peninsular? Lets say I walk from Denham to Monkey Mia but round Cape Peron for good measure.





A handy map of Francois Peron National Park

For two weeks I have discussed the idea of this hike with some of the prominent, knowledgeable people of Denham. The news is good. My local source has told me that there is no memory of such a hike ever been attempted. I am immediately warned that there isn't any car access in many of the parts of the national park. I will be on my own out there, must carry my own water and phone reception will be scarce. Right!!! This is the hard man Bear Grills hike I need to do .........

"and fast"

This is the story of a semi-grey nomad's attempt to circumnavigate the Peron Peninsular, hiking mainly on the beaches from Denham to Monkey Mia. 


Day One: Big Lagoon to Little Lagoon. 



A bearded dragon spotted on the way


"Yer got to walk to that third dune on the left." I was told with a pair of binoculars pressed to my face. Precious information from someone who has walked these parts on many occasions. "Middle bluff is hard to get around as there is thick mud and lotsa mangroves" said my source of information in ocker 'Strayan'. After a warm "goodluck" I set off for Little Lagoon on a ridge overlooking its bigger brother Big Lagoon.




"See that third dune on the left?" 

The first couple of km's I spend finding my way through shoulder high bush on kangaroo trails. At times I had to go back and find another trail to go towards that third dune. Sometimes there was no way forward other than to push through some of these low scrubs. Branches were cracking, snapping underfoot and brushing past my legs. As I am a novice hiker in this area I did not recognise the scrubs that had sharp thorns. The long trousers I was wearing soon were punctured several times scratching my legs till they bled.



An untouched round birrida
 
 
 
A small birrida or clay pan appeared at the foot of a hill and gave my legs some respite from the assault on my legs as birridas are flat and only low scrub grows on them.




A flower growing on a birrida

After two arduous kilometres I arrived at the tidal inlet where walking became easy on hard flat sand. Rather than walking way-around a large lake I thought it was smart to cross the tidal stream that flowed into it. I leapt up high, far and with camera in hand and landed beautifully at the other end. My foot stomped into the other shore as it should, however, the supposedly hard expected sand wasn't there. A smelly, grey, muddy mess squirted up with force and covered most of my legs, outstretched arm and camera. I spent the next half hour cleaning up my camera with the inside of my shirt, the only part not covered in sulphur smelling goo. Literally a semi-grey nomad I continued to battle more bush and dragged myself over some dunes to finally hit the beach.

 

The point of entry to the beach
The beach was like a walk in the park. That lovely solid summer breeze of Shark Bay was blowing freely into my face. It was low tide which left me with a wide strip of hard sand to get into cruise mode walking style. The shoes came off and I walked some time through the cool, refreshing, ankle deep water. Suddenly I saw something move out of the corner of my eye. Only metres away from me.........a shark??!! Wait a minute - there is another one - and another. When life returned back to my extremities and my mouth had closed again, I quickly stepped back on to dry land and gave my camera a fair work out.


A shark only a couple of metres away

While I continued walking some of the sharks stayed next to me.

I am walking with sharks. Priceless!!!


These sharks, I was later informed, were nervous sharks. They were a maximum of a metre and a half long and shot away as soon as I came anywhere near them. Because I have lots of time when hiking I attempted to count the amount of sharks I spotted that afternoon but gave up after one hundred.


All these black spots are sharks

After a couple of hours walking over tremendous beaches, the tide had reached its lowest point. In the distance I could see the golden sand dunes of Dirk Hartog Island. An Emu was strolling, pecking at bush tucker along the beach coming towards me. When eventually the bird spotted me it became panic stricken and in a flap, sprinted past me on the empty mudflat bringing some much needed comic relief from a hard day at the office.





Flight of the flightless

All animals are nervous today.

 
I turned left off the beach and followed the tidal river to and around Little Lagoon. Another little gem in this harsh land. Julie was waiting at the Eastern side of Little Lagoon and in the car to take this weary hiker home. As I sat down she immediately pulled up her nose when she smelled the semi-grey mud covering my clothes. Eaah. You smell!!

Just another day's work for a nomad.
 
 
Grey Bits


Little Lagoon is a great picnic spot and great for walking short distances. Crossing the tidal river here is not recommended due to stonefish lurking in the shallows. 
 
Please note, that this hike around the peninsular is through very wild, uninhabited country. In my opinion it is not advisable to attempt this hike without a support team or proper communication devices like a satellite phone or  EPIRB. Hiking experience is a must.



TDugong bones I stood on accidently

The opening photo is of Big Lagoon and Middle Bluff.

Let the Department of Parks and Wildlife  know where you are going to be and when you plan to return. Phone (08) 9948 2226 or click on the following links www.sharkbay.org, www.dpaw.wa.gov.au for more information of the area.

The best time to walk around the Peron Peninsular is at low tide. You can check the tide at www.seabreeze.com.au
 

 


 

 

 

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