Guest Blogger David Ong. Just Tonking Along!!

 

Marathon running hurts, it hurts badly and hurts during and after the 42.2 km slog. It is a physical test of epic proportions as well as a smorgasbord of hitting walls, waging war against a mind in crisis and dealing with whatever tricks the grey bouncing cells will throw at the exhausted straggler. Most people only ever run one and for good reason. I am in awe of anyone that has ever hobbled to the finish line, gave up three quarters of the way in or experienced the unthinkable - cruise to victory.  Here is a raw report of a marathon attempt by friend and guest blogger David Ong.
So, everyone playing at home knows that this particular running nutter came back from NZ feeling a bit out of sorts. A month of eating out and sampling more than my fair share of NZ - specifically the delicious boutique beers - had me feeling like I had more love than when I left (especially so if love can be measured in kg). Though I'd been for a few runs while away, I certainly hadn't done the km I'd thought I might cover, and given some tensions on the work front, and having been away from the family for so long, my mental balance was well out of whack. As I didn't feel happy feeling like that, I decided to get things under control, so started work on building the kilometres and reducing the baggage.
My 30ish km in the first week back quickly expanded over the coming weeks - through the mid 40s and into the late 60s. At the same time I started extending the long runs - stretching out to a peak of 38ish towards the end of May. I was running the long ones on Saturday mornings, as the kids' sport meant that Sundays were out, but the early starts and glorious sunrises helped me think things through, focus on the good things, and realise that life really is what we make it.
At this stage I was feeling ready to commit to a long run, and after reading a bit of yibber-yabber on the (unofficial) parkrun FB page, I got excited after a few gin and tonics and signed up for the Perth Marathon.
 
The course of the Perth Marathon. Map courtesy of the WAMC
As per the last two marathons (my average has been one a year for the past couple of years), my race plan was simple - get to the end. However, having run a few times with Mr Scott Bunny and absorbing some of his experience and expertise in long runs, I had a bit of a look at the pace that I'd been holding over my longer runs and decided on a number - 5:30mins per km. This is about 10 seconds or so slower than my natural pace, and given the additional distance I was going to cover, seemed like a good number. Also, according to an online pace calculator, a 5:29 pace would see me at a 3:51 finish, almost 10 minutes shy of my last marathon finish time. What's more, the Perth course was flat, so I should be able to hold that pace, right?
The next few weeks were hard - knowing there was an 'end' in sight, and the reducing of distance for me meant that I was starting to struggle with keeping the motivation up. What was more worrying was that my right knee was staring to cause me grief (probably due to the speedy increase in distance covered - something I don't recommend). I guess as well I was just ready to finish with training and get my Saturday mornings back.

Looking at West Perth in the early morning. Photo courtesy of Taj Kempe

Though the running was going well, the rest of my planning was, erm, crap. A couple of days before the race, I realised that I was out of gels*, and as they were only available online, I wouldn't be able to get any before the weekend. As time was not on my side, I meandered down to the local bike shop and bought a bunch of over-priced Shotz gels, which I'd never tried, but were the only option available. For those who have done big events before, this was breaking Cardinal Rule #1 - don't try anything new on race day, but what could possibly go wrong? Surely in this case it was a guide, rather than a rule...
In addition to the nutritional challenge, I'd bought myself a new running watch, and though I had done a few runs with the new toy, I was in no way familiar with all the new (fancy) functions and display. I managed to exacerbate this by installing a new 'run face' on the watch just days before the marathon - this turned out to be a display chocked full of important and useful race information... that I just didn't need, couldn't read at a glance, nor make sense of with a fuzzy head.
Even with these challenges looming, I went into the day with some confidence, especially as Scott had told me a few days before that he was coming along for a lap, and would 'tag along' at my pace (I guess when you've done almost 20 marathons and ultras, you *can* come for 'a lap' without training - I'm certainly not there yet). What this meant for me was that I could rely in part on someone to keep me in check.

The race day started early - I'd woken up at 1:30am for a wee, then again for another at 3:30am before 'properly' getting up at 5:30am. The long-suffering and dear wife (Rebecca) was kind enough to play Uber, at an ungodly hour, for Mr Bunny and I and dropped us off at Burswood with half an hour to spare.
In between another couple of nervous wees (at this stage I wondered if I needed to see a Doctor), I was struck with how open and welcoming the running community can be. I was able to chat with a few other runners, and the fact that we all were running our own race, had our own goals and as we bumped into each other at the port-a-loos more than once, made me realise that we really were all in this together. Apart from the runners inching their way to the front of the line that is... but they're a different breed.
I had had half a plan to catch Melanie for a quick warm up km or two, but after having to wait in a snaking queue for a cubicle meant that when I called her, she was already at the start line, so I did a quick lap by myself to warm up (more good advice from Scott). After the warm up, I scurried over to the Start, as I could hear the announcement that the race was about to begin. As I made my way to the crowd, there seemed to be an extraordinary amount of people, and I had a moment of panic trying to work out how I'd find Scott amongst all this lycra. Luckily for me, Scott was wearing his lucky (bright red) hat which stood out in the crowd, so I wriggled my way through the crowd and was by his side just in time for the starting gun.
The first km went by in a rush, so much so that I only remembered part way through that I hadn't started the run timer on my watch! I had to smile as I realised that this would not affect the readings, which I couldn't decipher anyway, and the timing chip on my bib would tell 'true time' at the end anyway.
From the start Scott and I wormed our way through the crowd, which started to thin at around the fifth km, and with each time Scott reported our pace (too fast!), we popped a few seconds in the bank. A few of those seconds were spent at a wee stop at the Maylands Yacht Club (yup - still had more to give), but we took off again with a handful of seconds to spare. We had credit! Leading up to the stop, Scott had suggested I up the pace to get ahead of the clock if I needed to stop, so I shot off ahead. I had a huge grin as I heard a "Not *that* fast Dave!" ringing in my ears. Scott obviously hadn't realised how over-hydrated (and nervous) I was.
Coming back past the start/finish saw a rise in pace - we covered that section at a 4:32 pace, which tells you a lot about the excitement of running past a crowd, and the danger of the red mist coming down, something that I'm sure has led the odd runner astray. Leading up to the start/finish was when I thought it was time to fuel up, so I opened the first gel and had my first taste. 


Dave tonking along

It was much worse than I was prepared for.
Now, gels are normally sweet, but the foul treacle that they'd bagged in a plastic sock as 'energy' was awful. It was so thick that I felt that it was something that I needed to chew, while at the same time wanting to spit it out into the verge. The goo coated my mouth and throat and made breathing difficult, as every time I took a breath it was like inhaling a handful of pavlova crumbs. I'd never been so glad to run into a water station, which let me wash down the foul gunge that was coating the inside of my mouth. I knew though, that I needed the buzz that it would give, and without it I'd run out of energy post haste.
The next 15km was a settling in period, and though we were traveling at a 5:20s average, I was feeling good. It was early on in this stage - somewhere around Sir James Mitchell Park (km 17) that Scott announced that my natural pace was 5:17, which, if I had a mathematical bone in my body, and the brainpower to calculate, I would realise was faster than the planned 5:30. He told me that if I wanted to up the pace, I was welcome to, but counseled that though the faster pace would result in a faster time, it might also result in more pain at the end, and given the distance, would only result in a few minutes difference at the end. I totally agreed that the 5:30 plan was 'The Plan', and so we should stick to that, as it was silly to change tact mid race. Around 10 minutes later, I promptly forgot that decision as we settled back into 5:17s. Scott, being a much stronger runner, and possibly just slightly interested in seeing me cry, let me go on at this pace.
It wasn't much longer after this point that I choked down another gel, instantly regretting my lack of planning, and promising myself to be better organised next time.
We tonked along holding pace and passing the odd runner until the 32km marker came into sight. It was at this point that Scott announced that we would start catching and passing people in earnest. We'd not long gone past Didi and Renee, cheering from an interchange station. These two did wonders for my spirit by letting us know how good we looked, and that we were cruising along like we'd just started out. I think that was a 4:47km. It turns out that Scott was right, and from this point we slowly reeled in runners ahead of us. Whenever we passed someone who looked like they were suffering, Scott would say a word or two of encouragement, further cementing him as a 'Good Guy' in my books. When the odd runner would pass us, Scott would cheerily announce that they were part of a relay group, so were comparatively fresh. In this section of the race I'd started to puff hard, and Scott had already nagged me about my form a couple of times, so I was relegated to silent Dave - no talking, just running. Mentally I was feeling OK, though did have to rein in the pace on a couple of occasions, as I was starting to hurt.


Elizabeth Key. Photo courtesy of Taj Kempe

Anyone who has pushed themselves physically knows pain. In my case, I was feeling the lead in my legs increasing with each step, and a twinge in my second toe on my right foot getting increasingly annoying (I'll lose that nail, but promise to spare you the pictures). With only a few km to go, I was running out of energy, so gagged down another gel and prayed to the running gods that my timing was right, and that the water stop was just around the corner - it was! Thankfully for me, though there were other body parts that were complaining, my right knee was holding up just fine.
We soldiered on through km 36-38, and the scattered crowd and applause kept me smiling. I took great joy in someone else's 'Go Dave!!!' sign, especially as Scott had let the card holders know that a Dave was coming, and they bolstered me with a great cheer.

The last few km of the race were a solid mix of agony and impatience. I really just wanted this to end. The fartlek training I'd done (pain box building), seemed like a waste of time, and had I had more breath I would have yelled and cursed. As it was, and luckily for me, all I could manage was a sad mumble, but as Scott has great hearing, he would pick up on this and encourage me to push through for the last few metres every time he heard some pain leak out of the box. I was working overtime trying to keep focus on the good things in life; things that had made me smile recently, but they seemed to fade fast. Towards the end, Scott kept a well timed commentary on distance to the finish, counting down every hundred metres or so, which made the difference between me stopping for a walk and running through to the end.
Being the gentleman that Scott is, he let me pull ahead for the last few hundred metres, and gave me the lead to sprint through the finish. I was hardly able to believe my eyes as I rounded the corner and saw the race clock counting up to 3:49 - and it wasn't there yet! There was a photographer set up at the finish line, and though I'm interested to see if he took a shot of me, there's a kind of fear that I don't want to see what kind of face I was pulling.



Dave and Scott feeling the pinch at the finish line
 

And with that, the race was done.
Looking back, sprinting through the finish was easy. Pulling up before running into the volunteers handing out bling was less so (sorry ladies), and I'm very glad that our brains can't recall pain - just the vague acknowledgement of it. I finished the run with a big, sweaty hug and thanks to Scott, to whom I am indebted to for reminding me that pain is temporary, and the hard times will end. The mandatory post-race beers and catch up with other runners was, as always, great. Recalling kilometres with like- minded running nutters is a special thing, and I'm already looking forward to the next session.

How much effort went into this smile I wonder?

* I like the Hi5 gels, which are runny rather than goopy, so easier to get (and hold) down. In hindsight, I probably should have asked around if anyone knew of a local stock, but had resigned myself to disappointment, so in this instance created my own reality.
 
 
Grey Bits
 


Congrats to Dave and Scott for an amazing achievement!!!

If you, somehow, are now tempted to put yourself through the Perth Marathon, and in Dave's words, become a bit of a nutter here is the West Australian Marathon Club website with all dates and info. www.wamc.org.au
Maybe start off slow with a parkrun (5km). You can find out where the nearest parkrun is in Australia  at  www.parkrun.com.au

If you like my blog, please feel free to share it with others.

I found the photo which opens this blog at runmara2005blog.blogspot.com.au/2011/06/8th-perth-marathon-41254.

Do you want to become a guest blogger like Dave, write your own story and publish on my blog, I would love to hear from you?Email me at storiesfrommars@gmail.com

Dave and I met at a half marathon; after about 5km I caught up with him and were so busy chatting for the next 16km that we were both sprung by the sudden arrival of the finish line. We obviously had a lot in common.
Thanks Dave for the photographs and inspirational story. 

The Heysen Trail 4. The Forty Kilometre Man

 
It is said that you can judge a man by his actions. Well, I became a little concerned about my own sanity when I arrived at Cape Jervis. All the passengers on the bus hopped onto the ferry to Kangaroo Island except me. There was I, alone, a small entity next to a big, open ocean. It was only I who took the turn past the trailhead and disappeared over a hill. ‘Is this really such an extraordinary, unusual, mad thing to do?’

I woke up my three stooges (read the blog ‘Heysen trail two’ if you want to know what it's all about) that morning at 4am to check the time - surely, it had to be time to get going. Way too early, I walked the convenient 300 metres to the central bus station where friendly Sealink staff looked after my huge towering bag - a nickname of my backpack will spring to mind soon. The markets around the corner were open for fruit and veg and I bought some cheap apples and carrots that would hopefully stay fresh in the top of my tower of agony.


It was a beautiful bus ride towards Cape Jervis. At first we hit the terraces in Adelaide with its broad strips of parkland looking pretty in the morning rays. Then suburbia, Lego style, floated by for some time. The hills rolled on and were soon covered with splashes of autumn coloured vines, evidence of our salubrious society - the McLaren Vale wineries begging for further investigation.

I could have sworn that we had arrived in the English country-side when our trip turned into a surreal episode of 'Escape to the Country'. Large, green, grass-covered hills stretched on as far as I could squint into the early sun. An English gentleman with a Wallace of the and Grommet series spoke  inside my head  "These rabbits do 'ave a funny way of hopping about, Grommet”.  
 
The unusual shaped light-house at Cape Jervis

In Cape Jervis I ordered my last barista made, liquid hug at the café, for what would have to be the last one for some time and sat down next to a young man who told me he just walked in from Bridgewater - near Adelaide. He asked me not to sit too close because he hadn't had a shower for a while – always a sign of a fair dinkum hiker. We talked for a while and he told me it had taken him four days to the Cape at a pace of around 40km per day. I was stunned!!! What a pace this young super-human had set! I told him I would be very happy to make it to Victor Harbor in five days, less than half the distance of his walk but in more than double the time. He told me his pack was very light with the downside that he would go hungry at times. "The more you carry the slower you get" he said while ogling my column of torture standing forlorn in the corner of the café. I followed his gaze and thought with happiness as well as trepidation ‘Looks like this snail will have enough to eat’.

"Look out for the slimy, green stuff” was one of his parting pearls of wisdom. I thought it was only polite to nod and grunt in agreement even though I hadn't a clue what 'the green stuff' was. I was about to tell him that I didn't smoke marihuana and was sure that I could fight off whatever spawn Kermit like monsters would throw at me, but thought the better of it.

The 20 something year old marathon-a-day-man was kind enough to take some photos of my fresh features before I finally set foot on the trail.



Raring to go, stick at the ready but unfortunately facing the wrong way

I would like to acknowledge the Ngarrindjeri or traditional owners of the lower Murray river, the care takers of this land I am about to travel through. 

With the last shot of caffeine buzzing in my brain I took on a flat trail along side my old friend the ocean. It only took five minutes to start whooohoooing and I bawled out a courageous "Yeah!" and a "Yeah man!!" 

Waves were lapping gently at the black rocks. The air, carried in from the ocean, left a salty flavour on my lips - or was that sweat already. All that sea, sun, salt and wind culminated in a strong sensation, one sorely missed by a desert dweller like yours truly.

The green hills soon required a bit more effort when a series of calf-burners stopped my random howls of ecstasy.

A seven strong pod of dolphins swam by while I stood high above them on a cliff. These dolphins were magnificent, powerful and much bigger than I remembered. There has always been something liberating about watching dolphins or whales glide past. 'Not bad for my first morning on the trail' I thought.


This is as close as I could get with my camera

In a meadow of sheep and kangaroos I sat down to have my first meal on the track overlooking Kangaroo Island from afar. When you still have fresh provisions, lunch can be a real pleasure. Try minestrone soup with a fresh bread roll and several blobs of melted goats cheese to carve out of the bottom of the bowl. A 'MasterChef' winner any day.
 
Identical double twin Kangaroos in front of the ocean
I was surprised to find that my phone was still barred-up and I had a long conversation with Julie while enjoying the 20 degree winter sun. Only 10km out from where I started, I enjoyed the longest break in the middle of the day lazing about in the green, green grass .
 
‘No 40km for you laddie, not today, not ever!’ said Wallace.

 Grey Bits

Sealink run regular bus services from Adelaide to Cape Jervis every day. Here is their link www.sealink.com.au



The Southern Ocean and, if you look carefully, Kangaroo Island in the distance

The Heysen Trail 3. Last Centuries Beauties



You can’t get past smashed avocado and poached eggs to revive, no matter how frugal any politician tells you to be. I had been walking for four hours through Adelaide and by 9am hit a trendy café in the centre of town.  After Googling 'What’s on in Adelaide' I found myself only metres away from the starting point of my next adventure.

The 20th century architecture tour happened to be on the Tuesday I was in town and a one off chance to get to know Adelaide better. The further into the 21st century we venture the more our buildings of the previous century need our care and attention. Putting it in human, slightly depressing terminology: 'Things grow old before you know it'. It appears Adelaide has a ground- breaking heritage listing of sublime architectural gems and a free tour to admire them. Count me in!!
 
When I first arrived at the former Reserve Bank building, it appeared that a booking should have been made. For around twenty minutes, I was hanging in suspense to see whether there was enough room for me on the bus. Twenty minutes was long enough to discover that I had landed in a flock of the most lovely ladies. I was the only male, besides the driver and the guide, and pretty close to being the youngest of the group. ”Where have all the husbands gone?” I asked, but was met with lots of shrugging of shoulders and mumbles about work commitments. Due to cancellations, I was relieved to be able hop on the bus. What followed was a very funny and interesting tour.

 
The city of Adelaide's Colonel Light Centre clad in wall garden
At one memorable stop at the Greek church of Archangels Michael and Gabriel we were not able to go inside due to the sharp glue smells coming from behind the heavy, bronzed front doors. Carpet was being laid over the floorboards and glued down by several workmen. Together with two other ladies we defied the Occupational Health and Safety warnings and like naughty children snuck up the stairs just inside the front door. It was a trip worth making. The inside view of the paintings and the dome of this magnificent symbol of migration to South Australia were mind-blowing - the smells also very uplifting.


The dome of the Greek church
 
The banter was flowing freely after the glue-sniffing incident.

At the Deep Acres Apartments a member of the public was adamant that he was going to catch our bus. The gentleman obviously wanted to join the gals on the tour, but was told gently that it would have taken him many hours to reach any kind of destination.
  


Evelyn in front of the Deep Acres Apartments

I have found a pattern throughout my life where I seemed to get along famously with the more mature faction of the opposite sex. I don't know whether this should be worrying me or not. The fact remains girls appear to 'wanna have fun' and not in the way where I am taking off my shirt, wave it above my head whilst jiggling my hips.
We stopped at the atypical Adelaide High School building. This award winning structure has a sweeping, rounded façade - the fantastic condition of the school sets itself as a class apart. We were encouraged not to take photographs inside the building because of the proximity of the school kids. We left these capable children to take footage of each other on their mobiles.


The Adelaide High School
The sun bus that was refuelling itself by the rays of the sun, drove us along in a large circle through Adelaide. We viewed McConnell House, drove over Adelaide Bridge and our final stop was the fire station completed in 1983. The rounded features of the building were striking; even the blackened practice tower adjacent to the $16 million building had that “curve appeal”.

The rounded walls of the fire station

The training tower that tries and fries our firies

Unfortunately, this tour had come to an end and after the group shots we all went our separate ways. A great morning had, cruising around with Adelaide's finest offerings of the last century.


A happy bunch. Group shot taken in Diorama in front of the sun bus

 Grey Bits

Yes, and all that was for free. Thank you Kevin and Megan for your sublime commentary and organisational skills. If you would like to go on this tour, you can find contact details on this website http://www.cityofadelaide.com.au/whats-on 

  
The crows on the tower in front of the Greek church

Later that day, I visited the third largest collection in the world of the ground breaking Auguste Rodin at the Art Gallery. The exhibition is called Versus Rodin, bodies across space and time. Find out more at  www.artgallery.sa.gov.au/agsa/home. Except for a sleepy guard or two, I found myself all alone with these amazing sculptures of powerful distorted body parts and melancholic citizens. Check out some of the photographs below.


A study off the Burghers of Calais



Casts of these sculptures are rare. One of the completed sculpture stands at Westminster Abbey
 

The Heysen Trail 2 - Just Call Me Dumpling.


Crickey!!!!

For someone that eats a lot of vegetables the sudden impact of a huge plate of dumplings is not to be underestimated. Feeling so full I started to think that I had become a dumpling. With something JFK could have said ringing through my head – “Ich bin ein dumfling” – I rolled back from Adelaide’s Chinatown to the cheapest accommodation I could find; the youth hostel's four bed dorm where an interesting night lay ahead of me.
 

China Town, home of the dumplings

My dormitory soon turned into a three stooges show where the first stooge, who I dubbed Mr. Snoremore, was busy running his chainsaw through a variety of logs. The snoring pitch varied from an alarming high-frenzied, wood-grinding to a low, deep, shattering rattle, shaking the room as though Vesuvius had just erupted. The exhale produced a high-pitched siren that  would have had our boys in Kokoda ducking for cover, yelling “incoming”. This man was definitely single room material only; in fact he could be a single all of his life without knowing why, deserted Island kind of bloke. At first, I used my pillow to block out Mr. Snoremores duel with the sound barrier but soon I wanted to use it for more sinister purposes. I was only stopped at the prospect of having to spend the next 25 years in another more sinister dorm.

The second stooge, Sir Stinkalot, came in at eleven and chose the bunk below mine.  As soon as the man laid down the pungent, sour fumes of cigarette smoke ,with a stale bouquet of pub trough drifted upwards. Holding my breath wasn’t going to help as I slowly turned blue under my pillow.

Stooge number three, Mystery Stooge, I suspect was on the red eye flight. His hour of arrival was unknown but it was deep, deep in the night. Attempts to be as quiet as possible failed epically with the heavy door slamming with gusto, waking up even the best sleepers seven dorm doors down. 
 
These wonderful experiences in dormitories take me back to Spain and the Camino de Santiago where we, a group of ten hikers, were forcibly honoured to observe a Spanish couple having it on, on the top bunk. How would it be to have the sexual juices flowing so badly that you would ignore twenty eyes and ears? I can assure you that she was having the time of her life with the added bonus that we all learned some very rudimental Spanish.
 
The seedy side of Adelaide
Finally, there was me. Old Fart Stooge with an upset gut full of dumpflings. Believe me, I desperately tried to keep the incessant waft from underneath my blanket to a minimum, so much so I could have snapped one of the logs that were being cut below. Every time I rolled around in bloated discomfort the bed squealed in protest. I could hear and smell Sir Stinkalot's smoky sigh of annoyance coming from below.
 
Adelaide Awakes!
Among the cacophony of sounds and smells in our tiny room I was ready to fly away into another world. I grabbed my camera out of my locker, accidently slammed the door on my way out, and found Adelaide shrouded in mist at 4.30 in the morning. I walked  about 12km's through cotton wool filled streets  - I just couldn’t stop - past Anzac memorials and universities – dodged street sweepers and garbo trucks – photographed the seedy pokie clubs and massage parlours – experienced the magical, dark River Torrens -  wondered about my own safety - took snaps of the misty coloured lights – strolled past several homeless guys sleeping in window arches – admired the sculptures in parks and streets – saw a group of joggers disappear into the mist.
 
Joggers in the mist

I escaped into the urban beauty of Adelaide.
 
Grey Bits

Due to me trying to keep things as cheap as possible during this trip, I bravely went back for one more night with my fellow Stooges.

How bad was his night?

If you are flying to the start of a hiking trail remember that you cannot take any gas bottles with you on the plane, hence, the extra day I needed in Adelaide. More to follow about my day in Adelaide in the next blog.
Here are some more photos I took that morning, plus more on my website https://www.facebook.com/storiesfrommars/?ref=bookmarks


Independence Day or Adelaide Oval

Purple Rain



The newly installed lights under the Adelaide Bridge


The memorial walk - Kintore Avenue
 

Elder Park


The Heysen Trail 1 - Chasing the Light


 
After nearly six months of hard physio, that ultimate new challenge has slipped it's calling card under my door.  I spent hours in the pool, stepping up and down the ledge in my backyard so many times I have nearly worn a patch in the breeze blocks. Yes, I have started jogging again and what about those millions of squats I put in the legs – enough already?! What a relief to find my knee in good enough shape after my anterior cruciate ligament and other bits and pieces were fixed up. It allowed me to get the backpack out of the shed again.

Why the opening photo courtesy of Pintrest of a water colour painting you may ask? This absolute classic is by a migrant called Hans Heysen born 8 Oct 1877 in Hamburg. This particular piece is called The Three Gums and one of his most famous.

Heysen loved nothing better than tramping with a stool and a box full of paint. He was especially drawn to the Adelaide Hills and spent most of his life exploring  the Aussie light around Hahndorf and the rest of South Australia. He was knighted in 1959 as his prize winning paintings and commitment to art turned him into a household name in Australia. They even named a hiking trail after him…….

The artist in action
 
 
"I cannot help feeling that my heart lies with these men who see intense and almost religious beauty in simple nature that surrounds us in the beauty of the skies and the mystery of the earth."

Hans Heysen to Lionel Lindsay (1922) 

Sir Hans
 
The Heysen Trail is 'only' 1200 kilometres long, running from Cape Jervis, north past Adelaide and well into the Flinders Ranges.  Where there is a will there is a trail. I have given myself three weeks to walk around two hundred kms to the hills east of Adelaide, thinking that I may like to have a break in Victor Harbor and explore this new frontier in my travel experiences. Heysen's house named “the Cedars” is in Hahndorf and wouldn’t it be fitting to end my crusade of physical devastation at his place which now serves as a museum?



From Cape Jervis to Hahndorf is just the beginning.
Map courtesy of the Friends of the Heysen Trail
 
Again, this journey will be a solo mission given that Julie has full time, permanent employment and I am working in a casual position where saying 'no' to work is quite acceptable. I am a lucky ducky! 
 
I found all my hiking gear in boxes under piles of other stuff and managed to gather up five days of dried, powdery food, a small tent, sleeping bag and mattress, lots of warm cloths and my beloved camera. It was a real tight squeeze into a backpack that at 18 kilos nearly gave me scoliosis when I lifted it for the first time. Why do I keep doing this to myself? Fortunately, this question often gets drowned out by anticipation of living wild - through and through.

“When I get back I am going to save every Indian orphan in the world” I thought to myself as I was sobbing uncontrollably on the flight over from Alice Springs to Adelaide. One shouldn’t watch emotionally disturbing movies like Lion in thin air, high above the ground. My advice - don't make any life changing, rash decisions on aeroplanes. The plight of abandoned babies soon disappeared from my mind when the plane landed in Adelaide.
 
A cloudy Adelaide

Here I was - a man from dead centre Alice, in a strange, for me noisy, hectic town trying to navigate through the checkered maze of broad streets, CO2 pumping machines and confusing landmarks.” Immediately I thought about those beautiful paintings I was inspired by.
'Let it be soon I thought - let me chase Heysen’s light.'
 

 
To be continued….. .... .. .


Grey Bits

The best place to find information on line about Hans Heysen is here http://www.hansheysen.com.au/  The quote used above was taken from this site along with the two photographs of Hans Heysen.

The Friends of the Heysen Trail can be found at Suite 212, Epworth Building, 33 Pirie St, Adelaide SA 5000. It is upstairs so try not to be out of breath when you get there. They jokingly inquired how much training I had put in for this hike. A friendly and very helpful bunch of volunteers. Their website: http://heysentrail.asn.au/

Thanks to Julie my lovely partner for supporting my crazy wonder lust.

Stories of the Air: The Rock Without Name




The air freighter cleared Temple Bar within seconds and prepared for landing. The pilots were looking through the window into the black, moonless night. Suddenly, a huge, dark shape burst into view. Frantically, the pilot grabbed the controls and yanked them back as hard as he could, trying to lift the plane in a last ditch effort, but it was too late……

On a crisp desert morning my companion and I decided to challenge ourselves with a hike to the crash site of the Westwind 1124 VH-AJS.  I drive by this site almost every day and look up at the inhospitable cliff face in wonder, tinged with a feeling of morbidity and a kicked-bucket, full of awe.
 
The kangaroos on the edge of the escarpment

There isn’t a track to be found except the ones Kangaroos have ground out. The first 300 metres was steep, with slippery rubble and several loose rocks that tumbled down the slope disturbed by my large, clumsy feet.  Lexi, who was following me at the time, jumped sideways to avoid the avalanche and  decided to run around me and lead me out. Smart dog!

In an exhale of relief and with a fine layer of sweat to offer the cold wind, we reached the flat area up the top.  From below, it doesn’t look like there is any room, but there is a spinifex covered strip of level ground along the range about 200 metres wide in most places. It seems that birds, reptiles and kangaroos have lived here without any disturbance for many a year.
 
Dodging spinifex all the way
 
 
And then the unthinkable happened during a dark night on 27 April 1995.

Rod Cramer heard the explosion of 14,000 litres of A1 jet fuel at the Temple Bar Caravan Park from about 4 km's away and put his SES (State Emergency Service) uniform on and made his way up to this yet to be named rock.

“Initial impact occurred when the right wingtip tank struck a rock on the north-western edge of the escarpment. The first major impact occurred 60 metres further on when the landing gear and the lower fuselage struck large rocks. The fire trail began at this point. The aircraft then progressively broke up as it continued across the top of the escarpment before cart wheeling into a ravine on the southern side. The wings and empennage, along with both engines, were at the base of the ravine. Most components had been severely affected by fire.”

Information taken from the report of the Bureau of Air Safety Investigation


First sighting

My heart sunk and a lump forced itself into my throat when I came across the first piece of debris, a small metal rectangle with two screws neatly punched through the metal.

Feeling uncomfortable about something, I continue on in a diagonal line across the top of the range. I found torn metal, smashed boxes with wires and unrecognisable bits and pieces that once formed a sleek machine that sliced through the sky with ease.

The broken wings flung some way down a narrow ravine - this is a sad place to be.
 
Grass starting to take over


The two pilots and a passenger, the report stated,....died instantly.
 


Rod spent 24 hours on top of the range and found himself in charge of recovering the three bodies. ”It is one of the hardest physical things I have ever done” he said as the loaded stretcher had to be hauled up the steep, rocky slope and carried to the helicopter on top.

He knew a couple of people that worked on the recovery that were affected by what they saw. Rod used the words ‘privilege’ and ‘respect’ to describe his feelings of that night - he appeared to be at ease talking about the whole ordeal.

Photo of an identical Westwind 1124 VH-AJS
 
Cargo was spread around everywhere according to Rod. People's tax returns were found and bizarre specimen jars of human tissue.  A huge amount of US Dollars had scattered itself across the top like a lucrative snowfield.


Rod - third from top left in training at Kings Canyon with his SES mates
 
How can such a thing happen?  What in earth's name causes a well-equipped, modern plane to crash on a mountain?





A piece of hose
 
The crash report of the Westwind is an involved, detailed document. The plane's engines were humming in the background on the cockpit recorder. This means  the crash wasn't caused by any mechanical failure. The investigator concluded in his report that the minima was set too low by the pilots being a recipe for disaster. It was set for 2300 feet rather than the prescribed 2700. A pinch of forgetfulness with a few grams of shortcutting and some inadequate checking of the flight path finding it's way on the menu. It becomes clear in the report that the two pilots didn’t get along, had argued on a previous flight and that any discrepancy in altitude could have been ignored due to their, this time fatal, level of ill-feeling towards each other.




Part of a water bottle
This is a beautiful spot, high above the life and sounds of Ilparpa Road. The views from here are spectacular – The Gap – Airport – Temple Bar – nothing but sky. A white cross is now standing near the broken wings of the Westwing overlooking the world.
 
Lexi looking down at Ilparpa road from the initial point of impact

On the way back, Lexi started chasing kangaroos and I could hear her yapping delightfully in the distance, even though she would never be fast enough to catch any of them. My mind went to the guys that lost their lives up there, wondering what it would be like. Staring imminent death in the face, much alike looking into the barrel of a gun that is about to go off. Never mind who was at fault, who was squabbling with who or who forgot what. The truth is that any man who faces such a final shock like these highly skilled pilots and their passenger did, makes them, in my opinion, heroes in their own right.

Lets not forget that they belong to families that never saw them return. Their spirits forever lingering at the rock without name.
 
The cross on the edge of the ravine
 

 Grey Bits

Let your mind rome to the amazing job the SES are doing. Well done for making our world a better place to live!

If you want to check out the SES and maybe even join this valuable organisation as a volunteer, check out this website www.ses.sa.gov.au

If you like to have a read of the full report of the Westwind crash you can find it on my website
https://www.facebook.com/storiesfrommars
If the range ever were to be named, I suggest we call it the Westwind Range.
 



This willy wagtail appeared surprised with our company

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